Wino Wrestling Federation #12: WHAT WE TALK ABOUT WHEN WE TALK ABOUT “OLD WORLD” & “NEW WORLD”
What we talk about when we talk about “Old World” and “New World”
A week or two after I started working at Ro Sham Beaux, someone asked me if I preferred “Old World” or “New World” wines. I guessed that they were going to judge me based on my answer, and I sensed that they were “Old World” connoisseurs themselves. My mind first went to Craig Haarmeyer’s Wirz Riesling, Aaron and Cara Mockrish’s (of Frenchtown Farms) Indigeaux, and Dani Rozman’s (of La Onda) Aguafiestas, three bottles I’d been lucky enough to sample in those first few weeks on the job. All local, subtle, complex, and beautiful.
And it’s not that I don’t like European wines–not at all. It’s just that something about the binary terminology of “Old World” and “New World” had a suffocating ring to it. And these wines from Northern California that I was coming to love were really astounding to me in terms of their nuance and romance.
I didn’t grow up in a household with wine on the table, so I entered my wine education with a complete beginner’s mind. When I first started working at Ro, someone asked me for a Chardonnay, and we didn’t have one by the glass. My knowledge of wine was so limited that I couldn’t even direct them to something comparable because I didn’t know what Chardonnay tastes like.
But it’s been almost a year now, and I’m starting to get the hang of things. I’m learning to trust my senses, follow my preferences, and do my research. I’m extremely privileged in this sense. My introduction to wine has been pretty plush. I’m getting to taste a huge range of high quality, low intervention wines from around the world. I’ve met winemakers, tasted with them in their cellars, befriended sales reps, harvested grapes, and even begun to learn how to make wine myself.
We are approaching our one year anniversary as a business and as a wine club, and I’m returning to the theme that we started with for our first WWF club theme: “Old World” and “New World.” This month, we’re going to take a look at whether or not this terminology is as relevant or useful as it was once thought to be.
James Sligh is a Brooklyn-based sommelier, writer, and educator. (Check out his project, The Children's Atlas of Wine for remote classes, a library of his writing, and his hand drawn maps of wine regions.) In his article for Punch, titled “The Myth of ‘Old World’ Wine,” Sligh warns against relying on these traditionally held distinctions as fact. Sligh writes: “As wine professionals, we’re trained to carve up the world into two parts: the Old and the New. Europe on one side and North America and the entire Southern Hemisphere on the other. Wine, in this telling, has an ancestral home, and one can taste the difference. Old World wines are more mineral, more complex, lower in alcohol, higher in acid, have a sense of place. “New World” wines are defined mostly by their lack—of history, of minerality, of tradition.”
These Californian wines that I love so much (Clos Saron, Arquils, Caleb Leisure, just to name a few more…) are stylistically aligned with what we’ve been traditionally taught to think of as being “Old World” characteristics. They are terroir-driven, with healthy acidity: hardly juicy alcohol bombs.
It’s true that the history of winemaking has been dominated by western Europeans, but that’s not the whole story.
Sligh writes: “I want to suggest that what we think of as wine “tradition” is more of a selective misremembering than an unbroken chain. Europe was once one of wine’s “new worlds,” and plenty of its “traditional” practices have existed for less than a century in many cases, with alternatives having been edited out or deliberately abandoned. Likewise, the “New World” itself is older than we think, full of lost folkways that provide alternative paths for wine’s future … Wine up until this point had already belonged to the Mediterranean world for thousands of years. It was farmed and traded by Egyptians and Phoenicians, Greeks and Persians. It was aged in clay, cut with seawater or doctored with lead, mixed with honey and herbs, used for medicine and to talk to gods.”
So this notion of the “Old World” tradition that Bordeaux geeks, wine educators, and even the Court of Master Sommeliers center their standards of taste around is a narrow view of the history of wine and winemaking. It’s just one of many “traditions” in wine across time and space. Sligh notes that “...it wasn’t until 1935 that the system people are usually referring to when they talk about “Old World” tradition was enshrined in law. The Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée laws regulated France’s most well-established wine regions, dictating where Burgundy begins and ends, assuring that its red wine is made from pinot noir, setting a minimum alcohol and maximum yield.”
This “Old World” as we think of it today has been constructed fairly recently. If we are doing the work in our own lives to undo our colonialist programming, doesn’t it follow that we should also rethink our language around wine?
Sligh concludes: “Tradition can be, and has been, remade.” He says a new tradition of farming and winemaking “...can mean keeping pesticides out of watersheds, cultivating soil microbiomes and treating vineyard workers like human beings. It doesn’t have to mean barring women from entering a cellar where wine is fermenting, or looking with suspicion on someone who wasn’t born in the village.” That’s a kind of tradition I’m happy to participate in.
-Kelly
Flawless Wine: A podcast about wine flaws and the people who love them….or don’t.
Presented by Disgorgeous.
In their second episode, “Oxidative or Oxidated,” hosts Kenneth Crum & Miguel de Leon sit down with Zwann Grays, Wine Director of Olmsted and Maison Yaki. They discuss the “Old World, New World” framework and consider how useful it is today.
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/flawless-wine-a-podcast-about-wine-flaws-and-the/id1588630427
Miguel de Leon How comfortable are you with “New World, Old World” as a distinction? Because I’m trying to shy away from that because it centers a place rather than an experience.
Zwann Grays It’s a gauge, a barometer.
MDL It was a useful term to an extent up until it wasn’t. Like, I don’t list anything geographically on my menu.
ZG And there you go. So you’re like, it’s wine. I don’t care where you came from, how you was raised, who raised you, how you was drinking wine at 6 years old, I don’t give a fuck. I am here to present you this list, and here’s what’s on it. So, people can be like “Oh, I don’t understand anything on here. It’s like, you don’t have to. We’re here for you. What are you looking for?
MDL Do you think that’s still a useful distinction for customers?
ZG I think it 100% is, it’s very useful.
MDL Because where do we draw the line then, for “New World.” What’s “New World?”
ZG “New World” I think is still “New World”. I think “New World” hasn’t changed.
MDL So what is that though? To me, whenever people say “New World,” it’s like here’s America, here’s South America, South Africa, here’s Australia. That’s a big chunk of place that’s not Europe. To me when we say “Old World,” it’s like: here’s all of Western Europe, here’s a little bit of Austria, here’s a little bit of Greece, and maybe that’s it. We discount this huge chunk, Georgia for example. This never got considered “Old World” wine, up until maybe very recently, and again, to look at the links of the Silk Road for example, is Israeli wine Old World? Is Turkish wine Old World? What can we consider? Where do we draw the line? Where do we stop that?
ZG It is still Old World.
*They open a new bottle of wine.*
ZG I think one thing though, that’s for sure--Old World is Old World. And Old World is “old river” us. We can sit here, we are wine professionals, okay. We know “New World” from “Old World.” And we talk about–
MDL Right, but I always want to question framing. Because framework is like, really important in terms of how we move forward in terms of the conversation.
ZG I don’t think it changes.
MDL You’re right, and I think that it’s time that the frame can actually just get obliterated because it’s outlived its usefulness, like in terms of things like climate change, in terms of things like–
ZG Oh, okay. Got it. Okay, then how does it look now? Now we say, oh, this is not “Old World,” now?
MDL Yeah, I mean you can say “It’s from Europe.” I think that that’s a much better geopolitical way to talk about that space without kind of going into this idea like “Why is it old?” “Old for who?” “Why is that new? New for who?”
Kenneth Crum I usually use Old World and New World as a style choice.
MDL Correct. So are there old world wines in California?”
KC Yes.
ZG That’s true
MDL Okay, so you see how much of a big leap that is for someone coming into the space being like “I thought California was in the New World. I mean, we’re always basing it, like there’s always an imperialistic bounding of the theory.
KC I completely understand, and I always stand behind questioning what we’re using as the standard ways of describing wines, but I always use it to make it easier to decode different things. Like, if I’m saying “Oh this Matt Taylor Pinot Noir is in the “Old World” style, Loire Valley style…”
MDL Style, fine. Sure, I get that. But I think, even just the distinction of “style” has become so much more individualistic, especially coming from domestic winemakers, right? You can find people who are making, I mean like Matt Rorick is a good iconoclastic figure for individualistic winemaking in California.
KC How often do you hear that, that term?
MDL Old World New World?
KC Yeah
MDL I mean enough from consumers, clearly. But I think that part of the divide is like… I mean we’re three brown people from New York City who maybe actively in their circles try to remove themselves from something like that. So that’s a big question from me. When we try to move ahead in that space, how do we consider that distinction when it’s like, we’ve never been included in the Old World. How can I become a little bit more engaged or involved with this idea of New World Old World dichotomies when those things actually don’t exist. Right? When Zwann says “My come up in wine and the things that I call home for wine are Greece and Georgia," right?
ZG Laughs
MDL From what she said, those are in “the Old World.” But when she steps into a place like Greece or Georgia, she feels like it’s fuckin’ the New World.”
And last but not least… THE WINES
Wavy X Bardos 2021 - a collab for the ages.
Syrah & feral apples
Sonoma, CA
Organic farming
Spontaneous fermentation
Unfined/Unfiltered
11.5% ABV
Distributed by Sylvester Rovine
A little bit about Bardos–we’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: their ciders are magic, and we love their whole project. Check out their website.
They say: “We create Bardos Cider in as natural a practice as we know possible. Simply put, we either glean our apples from derelict orchards in West Sonoma County or work with local farmers who steward the old orchards of a bygone California—no more, no less. Older trees that are no longer cultivated, their struggle and abandonment, bear fruit with more personality and complexity. Additionally, we add in wild seedling of Indian, or old-world apples whenever possible. The majority of the varietals and sports we incorporate have been developed by historic characters like Luther Burbank, Felix Gillet, Albert Etter, for the specific climate of Northern California.
During the winemaking process, we intervene as little as possible. We press the cider, sometimes leave it to macerate on its own skins and age it in neutral oak or steel. After bottling, we leave it to condition on its own naturally-occurring lees. The product is unfiltered and non-disgorged.
Our branding speaks to the diverse narratives present in the land and life that comprises the area in which we make the cider.
The fruit is grown on the unceded land of the Southern Pomo and Coastal Miwok and the wine is made with the utmost respect for the people of Graton Rancheria and acknowledgment of Elders, past, present, and emerging.”
And Wavy Wines!
They say: “Wavy Wines started as a friendly conversation between Eliot Kessel and Jude Zasadzki while celebrating Eliot’s daughter's birthday in 2019. We were drinking natural wines from all over the world trying to fathom how we could start a project that begins to resemble these styles of ‘Vin de Soif’. Easy summer wines were top priority.
After many conversations about where we should start, we came across an affordable source of Pinot Gris from an organic vineyard in Chico, California. It was pretty set in stone that we were going to make a skin contact/ramato style of wine. Coupled with a little bit of Chardonnay from Scribe Estate Vineyard we were in business.
With finances being tight we decided to take a chance on making a Piquette from the same grapes. The process to which we got there really marked a pivotal moment in Wavy. We will always recycle our grapes, and that will always change with whatever we source for that year.”
As a Wavy X Bardos collaboration, they write: "A Sonoma County story of old feral apples and organically-farmed grapes united by the friends and families of Wavy and Bardos. Made with love, we are excited to share a soifey, fresh, sparkling red wine, where the richness and spice of Syrah meet the juicy-dryness of natural California cider.
Our Syrah was organically farmed by grape cowboy angels Dave Rothchild and Dan Marioni in Carneros. The apples, mainly Pink Pearl, Jonathan and Roxbury Russet, were hand-gleaned by Wavy and Bardos from derelict trees that have been surviving on their own for generations in the Goldridge sandy-loam of West Sonoma County."
Our Take:
“A long time lost in the covid sea’s lull, yearning for the arrival of the Bardos x Wavy coferment. It’s here! The euphorias arise. The bottle popped, bubbling goodness begins. The wind has now picked up, crisp air matched with a warm gentle overhead sun; the sails are now filled as well as our glasses. The bubbling continues, the first sip as bright as the sun, a pleasing brightness. The high spirited juiciness revitalizes the wearied soul and continues to sparkle on the tongue. Tastes of sour green apple turned to the sweet grape, we grab ahold of the metallic mast upon swallowing the cofermented juice and gaze fore along the vast sea horizon. Sights of land ahead, leaving this motionless sea calls for another glass and a cheers with the glistening sun.”
-Justin (the newest member of our team!)
Vignoble Dinocheau 2020 Pineau d'Aunis Rouge
"Located on the slopes of Cher, Vignoble Dinocheau was founded by the great-great-great grandfather of Laurence and Fabien Dinocheau. Laurence and Fabien took over the estate in 2006 and it now covers 13 hectares in both Chenonceaux and Touraine AOPs. They aim for minimal intervention in the vineyard and practice sustainable farming." - Zev Rovine
They say: “Our plots reflect Touraine and its diversity of grape varieties, including the oldest, thus offering a complete range of white , red , rosé and sparkling wines.
The soils, clay-limestone and clay with flint, on a tufa subsoil, make it possible to reach optimal maturities. They lend themselves to the production of wines that are both supple and fruity, round and full-bodied, with a fine minerality depending on the grape variety.
Our cultural policy incorporates natural grass cover as well as minimal intervention in the vines. We thus aim for a sustainable development of our vineyard, where each decision must preserve the balance between tradition and innovation.”
Several objectives:
– limit the use of weed killer
– limit soil erosion
– encourage the rooting of vine stocks
– preserve the fauna and flora at soil level
Our Take:
"A beautiful ruby color that skews almost lavender in evening light. It smells like laying down on hot granite at the Yuba River. Refreshing, light-bodied, gentle-yet-present acidity, with a good grip of tannin. This wine is like peeling a ruby red grapefruit and getting the oils all over your hands. It's like picking rainier cherries and then taking a nap under the tree. It's strawberries and raspberries and blueberries. If you haven't had the Loire darling that is Pineau d'Aunis before, this is a perfect introduction. And if you find that you really love its graphite, grapefruit, pepper, and macerated strawberry character, definitely snag a bottle of Ariane Lesné's Pineau d'Aunis from Domaine de Montrieux! We have it on the shelf right now."
-Kelly
Aslina Wines 2020 Chardonnay
Chardonnay grapes were hand-picked at optimum ripeness at the end of February 2019. The grapes come from Stellenbosch and Elgin. The grapes from Stellenbosch were fermented in tank and the grapes from Elgin in second-fill barrels. 25% of the wine was then aged in second-fill barrels for 10 months while the remainder rested in the tank sur-lie.
A complex Chardonnay, fresh, round and soft. Partial wooding gives this wine the edge and to show the beautiful, tropical fruit and limey character. Slight buttery notes showing on the palate with a balance of acidity, fruit and oak.
Ntsiki grew up in Mahlabathini, a rural village in Kwazulu Natal, and matriculated from high school in 1996. Having spent a year as a domestic worker, she was awarded a scholarship to study winemaking in 1999. She graduated in 2003 with a BSc in Agriculture (Viticulture and Oenology) at Stellenbosch University and joined boutique winery Stellekaya Wines the following year.
Ntsiki’s ambition to create her own wines grew following a collaboration with Californian winemaker, Helen Kiplinger, as part of Mika Bulmash’s Wine for the World initiative. In addition, she has consulted in France, making wine under Winemakers Collection in Bordeaux. She sits on the board of directors for the Pinotage Youth Development Academy, which provides technical training and personal development for young South Africans in the Cape Winelands, preparing them for work in the wine industry. The program offers them the unique opportunity to emulate her own considerable success.
Our Take:
"My first ever South African wine! When I first tried it, it was way too cold. Best enjoyed at a slightly warmer temperature--take it out of the refrigerator for 20 minutes or so before sipping. Or let it slowly warm in your glass, and notice how the nose goes from baarely there, to bright, tropical and citrusy.
It has notes of apple pie, lemon peel, lemon juice, with juuuust a touch of oak. I don't typically drink wine and think "dang, I could really go for some fish right now," but this bottle had that effect on me. Grilled fish would be perfect with it.
Bridget Jones would drink this and love it. Your Chardonnay-loving family members will, too.
-Kelly
Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur-Champigny “Cuvée Domaine” (2020)
Producer: Thierry Germain
Region: Loire Valley, France
Grape: Cabernet Franc
Appellation: Saumur-Champigny
Cabernet Franc - 4-70 years - Sand, Clay, Tuffeau Limestone
100% de-stemmed, fermentation in stainless steel tank for 8 to 10 days
Light pumpovers during fermentation—meant to infuse the grapes not extract them
Aged in stainless steel and wood tanks, on fine lees, without sulfur, for 3 to 4 months
Communes: Chaintres de Varrains and Saumur
Hand harvested, sorted by hand at the winery
Natural fermentation for all wines
No new oak barrels or tanks of any size
All still wines aged in bottle for 6 months
All vineyards are certified biodynamic by Biodyvin except the Clos de L’Ecotard which is certified organic by Ecocert (and is also worked biodynamically)
Thierry Germain’s domaine, Roches Neuves, whose vineyards are planted in the Saumur (Blanc) and Saumur-Champigny (Rouge) appellations, has rightfully become one of the greatest examples of high achievement in biodynamic vine growing in France. We put him up there with the greats: Abbatucci in Corsica, Ganevat in the Jura, Ostertag in Alsace. His total dedication to site specific wines produced from Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, his “parcellaires,” has produced some of the most exciting wines in the Loire Valley today.
Thierry relocated to the Loire from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, and soon fell under the influence of his spiritual father, Charly Foucault of Clos Rougeard. Thierry would ultimately convert his entire domaine to biodynamic viticulture, which was the equivalent of his wine epiphany. Listening and observing his plants, allowing them to guide him, revolutionized his way of thinking. Thierry harvests on the relatively early side to preserve fresh, vibrant fruit. His goal is to produce Cabernet with purity, finesse, and drinkability, while avoiding rusticity, vegetal character, and hard tannins. When it comes to his Chenin, he makes bone dry, high acid, mineral wines that drink like Chablis young and take on weight slowly over time. Aging takes place in large oval foudres (for the whites) and round foudres and demi-muids (for the reds) in Thierry’s frigid tuffeau cellars below his winery in Varrains. His incredibly diverse terroirs are translated with utter clarity and precision.
Our Take:
"Into the glass, the color is garnet with a thin neon halo resting at its edge. A quick swirl and a sniff reveal ferrous, leathery notes combined with raspberry, stewed strawberries, and burnt sugar. The first thing out of my mouth was “blood and cupcakes” and yes I did think to omit that utterance yet even with that I find the smell extremely pleasant. The mouthfeel is heavy velvet balanced with a cut of electric acidity. The flavors move legato from plum and blackberry transitioning to olive and violets then a finale of bell pepper and juniper. It feels ceremonial as if it’s meant to be drunk with some sacrificial purpose, I’m talking altars, shrouds, candles and bejeweled ritualistically filled chalices. Frankly, I have underdressed for the occasion as I am just wearing sweats and a hoodie but my hood is up and I lit a candle."
-Addam
Wino Wrestling Federation #11: Pairing for Ultimate Pleasure
pairing for ultimate pleasure
You’re likely going to be sharing these bottles with friends or family at an upcoming holiday gathering. Maybe you won’t, but I bet you will. Or at least you’ll consider it.
Many of us who work at Ro Sham Beaux are familiar with the experience of bringing home a bottle of natural wine from our favorite producer, only to be met with vacant stares from our conventional wine loving family members. “Is this supposed to be good?”
Sigh.
Nobody wants to be the asshole who shuts down when met with resistance to what they’re bringing to the party.
This month we arm you with food pairings to sweeten the introduction of these wines to hesitant imbibers.
It’s true that natural wine isn’t beloved by all. But there’s a lot to love in the world of naturally made wines. They’re vibrant, and alive, and tend to deliver the unexpected. Set your loved ones up for success by pairing these wines with foods that’ll really make ‘em sing. Feel free to use our ideas as a jumping off point, and let us know what you come up with!
Cheers,
-Ro
Kadarka Porkoláb-völgy 2019
Producer: Heimann & Fiai
Appellation: Szekszárd, Hungary (SekSard)
Grape Composition: 100% Kadarka
Climate: Cool continental with dry warm summers
Soils: Mainly loess with iron rich red clay.
Maceration & Aging: Fermented in open plastic vats, 13 days maceration, and then aged in unlined clay vessels for 8 months.
Alcohol: 12.8%
Residual Sugar: 1 g/l
Acidity: 5.2 g/l
In 2012 the Heimann family planted 2 hectares with 3 specific clones (P123, P115 and P131) on the western facing and windy part of the Porkoláb valley. The soil is the typical loess of Szekszárd with the addition of iron rich red clay. Using no more than 30% whole clusters, the 2019 was fermented in open plastic vats, light extraction with twice daily punchdowns, 13 days maceration, and then aged in unlined clay vessels for 8 months. Compared to the Birtok, this single vineyard bottling is impossibly elegant and layered despite having less alcohol. Aromatically, it showcases the dried flower, herbal and spiciness of Kadarka
Our Take:
“The great poet Charlotte A. Cavatica once spun the words “SOME PIG!,” “TERRIFIC,” “RADIANT” and “HUMBLE.” While these inspiring words were intended to evoke a sense of empathy as an emotional catalyst to spare the life of her dearest friend Wilbur, I dare say they elegantly encapsulate the full experience of drinking Hungarian Szekszard Kadarka. This savory "Pork" wine is perfectly poised to be paired and shared with the light and sweet nature of “Zuckerman's Famous Pig!”
Certified Organic and hand harvested, this vibrant ruby red boasts an elegant balance of playful acidity and delicate tannins. Bright raspberries and sweet cherry steal the show with a supporting cast of soft minerality, and supple floral tones. A veritable smorgasbord indeed.”
-Kyle
Pairing:
These pairing ideas are brought to you by our fave, Eric Danch of Danch & Granger Selections (importer of this wine, and Sac local).
“Halászlé (fish, paprika soup), but it also goes really well with anything with beets (Borscht!), wild mushrooms, and paprika. You can find a recipe for Halászlé here. A number of versions exist, some are served over pasta, others include cream, but all are made using freshwater fish such as carp, perch or pike. Fried fish are also served at the festive dinner, along with warm potato salad. To complete the feast, beloved Hungarian desserts are offered, such as beigli (walnut and poppy seed
roll), kifli (crescent-shaped yeast roll), and chocolate-coated fondant candies called szaloncukor,
which are hung on the Christmas tree and used to decorate yuletide gifts.”
Consider also:
“Spiced with Hungarian paprika, dill, and thyme, this comforting soup is just what you need when
winter seems to go on forever, and ever, and ever…”
Jeux de Vin, Tout va Bien, Alsace, Pinot Auxerrois, 2020
This wine is from a negociant project from Kumpf et Meyer in Alsace. They wanted to highlight growers near them who have amazing vineyards, while simultaneously keeping this project separate from their personal label.
Direct press Pinot Auxerrois goes straight to neutral barrels, and kept on the lees. Bottled in the spring.
Our Take:
“This is like a pear dipped in petrol. It’s got a stickiness to it. On the nose, it’s like sparkling pear cider. On the palate there’s a sting on the end, but with a little creaminess that blunts it. Reminiscent of citrus Fun dip. Remember Fun Dip?
Sometimes white wine will pack too much of a punch in the alcohol department. It can just taste too…. Alcohol-y. This is subtle, and hardly abrasive.
We want to drink it outside, around a fire pit.”
-Juli, Eric, Jasper, & Kelly
Pairing:
Roasted Veg! Mushroom and Asparagus, specifically. We recommend steering clear of sweeter vegetables like squash or sweet potatoes. Stick with something savory. Anything earthy.
Or a savory goat cheese tart with a medley of mushrooms.
Orrrr, take this route, inspired by Kyle: take a log of goat cheese (not chevre, as it’s too crumbly), freeze it for 10 minutes, slice it into medallions, coat ‘em in egg whites, roll them in almond meal, and fry them in a pan until crispy. Top a salad of greens and make sure to drizzle some good balsamic in there.
Gaga de Toi, Domaine de Montrieux, 2019
Gamay from Gaillac, 8 days of maceration, fermented and aged in tank.
AOC: Côteaux du Vendômois
Viticulture: Organic
Size: 6 hectares
Terroir: Clay, Limestone, Flint
Ariane Lesné has been working in wine since the early 1990s after leaving university with a postgraduate degree in management and marketing, specifically in the area of wines and spirits. In 1994, she joined the Repaire de Bacchus, a chain of Parisian wine stores. It was in 1998 that Ariane worked her first harvest in Burgundy and led her to complete her training with a Professional Patent Manager Farmer, with the goal of one day managing her own domain. She stayed in Burgundy for six years, where she had the chance to work with one of the seminal (now certified biodynamic) domaines in Nuits St. Georges, Domaine de l’Arlot.
In the mid-2000s, Ariane went to Great Britain to work for an English wine merchant who introduced her to the world of fine wine speculation, but in 2008, she returned to Paris to take up the trade of wine merchant. It was here that she was first immersed in the world of organic, biodynamic, and natural wines which fueled her desire to return to the land.
During this time she was falling under the spell of pineau d’aunis, specifically the 2005 vintage of Domaine de Montrieux Rouge, which reminded her of the texture of the pinot noir that she loved so much but with an added aromatic side typical of the grape variety. This was the spark that then led to a deeper interest in the region the variety is grown — that is in and around Touraine and Anjou — and a quest to taste all the wines made from it. After a few years of exploration, it was settled that this is where she was going to live. In the beginning of 2014, Ariane learned that Emile Héredia, the owner of Domaine de Montrieux in the Côteaux du Vendômois, would be selling the estate. She didn’t think twice about it, and by harvest time she was living on the estate, ultimately taking over by the spring of 2015.
When she first took the reins, the property was planted to 7.5 hectares, but after two years of losses (2016 loss of 60% and 2017 loss of 40%), she decided to uproot some vines to replant in a better-suited parcel in 2018. Now, the estate has a little over 6 hectares of vines planted with pineau d’aunis, gamay teinturiers, chenin blanc, pinot blanc, pinot noir, and cabernet franc. In 2017 Ariane decided to begin a small negoce project to supplement her production in lean years, as many in the Loire had to do after a string of trying vintages.
Our Take:
“I have never loved a Gamay more in my life. I drank it over the course of three days, a glass and a half or so each night. And if you’re familiar with natural wine, you’ll know that they don’t always hold up the day after they’re opened. This one was a real marathoner.
I was on a pizza-making kick over the course of those three days, trying to perfect my cast iron Neapolitan technique. If you’re not familiar with what I’m taking about, take a look here.
Gamay famously pairs well with all kinds of foods. From spicy Thai, to fish, to roast chicken, to cheese… it’s rare to find a grape that dances so well with so many.
The aromatics on the bottle are stunning. Peonies and violets, rich soil–it’s a dream of a garden.”
-Kelly
Pairing: Homemade pizza! Or, literally anything that sounds good to you. It’s a gastronomical choose-your-own adventure with this one.
Cidrerie Du Vulcain Cidre de Fer 2020
Fruit: Cidre de Fer, Fer Apple (19th Century Germany variety)
Farming: Foraged from pristine and untreated trees, high-branched (2m)
Location of Trees: In the Molasse basin in the northern Alps, near Fribourg, Switzerland
Soil: In pastures lying in a geological basin filled with alluvial sediment eroded from the mountains, composed of gravel, sandstone, and mudstone. The base is schiste; the topsoil is largely clay-based.
Fermentation: Initially fermented over indigenous yeasts in stainless tanks; lighted filtered and decanted into bottles to complete fermentation.
“Jacques Perritaz is the Swiss version of Johnny Appleseed. Rather than planting trees, however, Jacques protects and perpetuates the fruit heritage of the Swiss Alps by crafting organic, natural ciders. Jacques works his magic in the bucolic pastures just south of Fribourg, Switzerland, an area justly renowned for its dairy cows, cream, and cheese.
He carefully selects heirloom varieties of apple and pear from small, isolated stands of fruit trees (150-200 trees in total) that occasionally emerge from the Alpine pastures. For all his ciders, Jacques forages the organic apples and pears from a total of 150-200 trees annually. He presses the fruit and then clarifies the juice before fermenting it slowly on indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and epoxy tanks. After the juice is fermented to half of its potential alcohol, he filters the inchoate cider to remove particulates, then decants into sealed vessels to allow “ancestral” secondary fermentation. He then draws off the lees, clarifies it, and then bottles the naturally- effervescent ciders.”
Our take:
“This the bottle you pop open for brunch on a brisk winter morning, after a festive evening with friends and family. You have an Emotional hangover but in the best way.
This single varietal heirloom cider was hand foraged from untreated trees in the northern Swiss alps. Wild and elegant, It starts off with delicate bubbles and a light green apple aroma. Reminiscent of a freshly baked pear/apple galette! A lingering medium sweetness that ends with a long & dry finish. With soft acid and light tannin, it has some stemmy notes and a great balance of fruit & salt.”
-Megan
Pairing: Lightly dressed radicchio leaves. Breakfast radishes with cultured butter. Nothing better.
Cremant du Jura Brut Nature Domaine de La Renardiere
Dénomination: Crémant du Jura AOC
Grape varieties: Chardonnay 100%
Region: Jura (France)
Alcohol content: 12.0%
Vineyards: From young vineyards on calcareous and clayey soils rich of red marls from Jura. Organic farming
Vinification: Alcoholic spontaneous fermentation in steel vats and second fermentation in
bottle with only must addition
Aging: At least 18 months on the lees in bottle
Production philosophy: Artisanal, Indigenous yeasts
Additional notes: Contains sulfites
The commune of Pupillin is home to the estate and vineyards of Domaine de la Renardière. Here, vigneron Jean-Michel Petit farms and vinifies a range of red and white wines that are arguably some of the best wines in the Jura. The domaine was established in 1990 and presently encompasses 7.5 hectares of vineyards. Half of Jean-Michel’s production is devoted to red (Pinot Noir, Poulsard, Trousseau) and half to white wine (mostly chardonnay, with a bit of Savagnin).
Since 2003 all vineyard practices and applications have been organic. The domaine achieved organic certification in 2012. In the cellar, Jean-Michel adheres to traditional methods of winemaking. Fermentation takes place via native yeasts, and sulfur additions are only utilized when deemed necessary. Elevage takes place in foudres for the red wines, and a combination of older barrique and foudre for the white wines.
Our take:
“This Cremant is so understated and friendly, you might almost miss the complex umami party happening right under the surface. Not me though—since I had the pleasure of drinking this thang from head to tail. I like to think we really formed a bond before I laid it to rest in my recycling.
It opens up bright and fresh, with green almonds and hazelnuts popping up and a characteristic appley quality—though not exactly the tart apples we like to crunch into, more like the yellowish softer apples that smell wonderful but don't have the best texture. Thankfully this is a wine not an apple and we don't have to deal with that.
There is texture though—in the form of fine yet persistent bubbles that help rotate the kaleidoscope of flavors, bringing one, then another to the surface for a quick show and tell. Patience is required, it took hours for some of the more unusual notes to emerge and by then I only had a sad half glass left. But that last glass, as often occurs to me, was the best of all. Basically room temperature, it sang with notes of uni (yes, uni) and even a little soy sauce. This is the uniquely wonderful life of Chardonnay from the Jura. I hope you will take a similar trip with this wine yourself. :)”
-Jasper
Pairing:
Reblochon cheese, duck, or, if you’re willing to really go for it, rabbit.
Ardure Luchsinger Muscat Canelli 2020 (0/0)
Winemaker Bio: Jason Ruppert's background started as a sommelier running successful wine programs in Marin, Sonoma and San Francisco, California. He had the distinguished fortune to have worked alongside Ted Lemon of Littorai and Steve Matthiasson, learning the ways of Biodynamic and Organic farming methods while working three vintages with Pax Mahle, Scott Schultz of Jolie Laide, Ryan and Megan Glaab of RYME and Jaimee Motley as well as working with Laura Brennan Bissel of Inconnu as her cellar rat before being given the opportunity to farm two vineyards on his own and to make his first set of three wines for the 2018 vintage.
Jason farms both his Chardonnay from Marin county and Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley naturally with no sprays of copper or sulphur. Both sites are in the process of regenerative farming methods, working with specific cover crops to help nourish and protect the soil. The wines are vinified in the most natural of ways with their healthy, native yeasts, basket pressing and letting all wines go through malolactic fermentation on their own and using little to no sulphur right before bottling. He also uses different crystals during primary fermentation to add in extra energetic vibrancy to the finished product. Ardure translates to "the heat of passion" in olde French.
Vineyard: Located in the North Coast and Clear Lake appellations, Luchsinger Vineyards are organized into 4 main blocks each consisting of 10 acres. au, Tinta Cao and Souzao, all on 101-14MG and trained onto a bilateral cordon California Sprawl trellis system.
They say: “Our vineyards are located in Lake County, California. Lake County is a rural enclave just north of Napa County and east of Mendocino County. Lake County surrounds one of North America's oldest lakes, Clear Lake. Our vineyards are farmed with 40 years of grape growing experience. We have vineyards in several sites throughout Lake County ranging from alluvial riverbed soils to red volcanic hillside soils. Our farming philosophy is to be watchful, meticulous and chemical free where possible, allowing each site to produce high quality fruit. We have worked with many winemakers over the years and understand that there are many styles of wine and we can tailor our farming practices to suit particular styles. Give us a call to discuss what we have available for this year or in the future as we are in the business for a lifetime.”
Pairing: Basque Cheesecake! The creamy, ricotta-like texture with the caramelized brûlée top is this orange wine’s perfect match…. *chef’s kiss*!
Or just go with créme brûlée if you prefer!
Wino Wrestling Federation #9: Harvest Celebration!
Summer’s drawing to a close
“I bought some quince when I saw it at the grocery store a few weeks ago (a sure sign of fall) and I’m watching them ripen on my kitchen table. It still feels like summer most days, but last night I wore an extra layer when I walked around my neighborhood. It’s a subtle shift right now, but the seasons are a-changin’.
Wine making is seasonal and cyclical. Grape growing and winemaking necessitate being in touch with the rhythms of the season.
This was my first year of working in a vineyard, as a self-appointed harvest intern. I was guided by my friends at every step of the way—learning the ins and outs of canopy maintenance and shoot thinning, all the way up through harvest. Harvest season for winemakers is a quick burst of energy: picking grapes at peak ripeness, ensuring that they don’t over ripen before harvest (which can result in flabby whites and overly alcoholic reds.)
Time is of the essence when it comes to harvesting grapes, which is one of many reasons why harvest is a stressful time for winemakers. It’s also a time when winemakers can make creative decisions about the wines that they choose to make. All year they’ve tended their vineyards to produce the best fruit possible, and now it’s up to them to decide when to pick them, and what to do with them. Are they harvesting early for rosé? Will they make a coferment? How about a skin contact white wine?
With all the hard work that comes along with harvest season, there are equal measures of celebration to be had. As the adage goes, “it takes a lot of beer to make great wine.” It’s a time of hard work, and abundance.
This month we have harvest celebrations on the brain. The wines we present to you are meant to be enjoyed with family, or friends, over an end-of-summer meal. Whether you’re celebrating a bumper crop from your own garden, clear and smoke-free skies, or the prospect of cooler weather, here’s to you!”
-Kelly
1 Bottle Club: L'Année - 2018 Les Clos Perdus or La Miraja - 2019 Grignolino
2 Bottle Club: L'Année - 2018 Les Clos Perdus and La Miraja - 2019 Grignolino
4 Bottle Club: 2020 Maurer Fodor Olaszrizling Subotica, 2019 Fossil & Fawn - Skin Contact Gewürztraminer, Johan - Grüner Veltliner, Les Deplaude de Tartaras - Vin de France Ciel d'Orage 2019,
6 Bottle Club: Maurer Fodor - 2020 Olaszrizling, Fossil & Fawn - 2019 Skin Contact Gewürztraminer, Johan - 2019 Grüner Veltliner, Les Deplaude de Tartaras - 2019 Vin de France Ciel d'Orage, L'Année - 2018 Les Clos Perdus, and La Miraja - 2019 Grignolino
La Miraja - Grignolino 2019
Estate fruit from vineyards situated around 280 meters above sea level. Southwest exposure. Calcareous-red clay soils. Many vines were planted in 1960, others more recently. 5,000 vines per hectare trained in the guyot style. Only 70 quintals per hectare harvested.
Hand-harvested fruit is destemmed and then crushed by basket press into stainless-steel tanks, where it remains in contact with the skins for 7 days while native fermentation occurs. Following spontaneous malolactic fermentation, the wine rests in cement vessels for several months prior to release.
Our Take:
“This uniquely Piedmontese wine has been often nicknamed a “winter rose” and is distinctly bright and delicate in comparison to the robust wines the region is famously known for.
I’m lucky to have enjoyed this lovely, garnet hued vino on the first chilly evening of fall and it perfectly evokes the cozy sunshine of an autumn day.
Primary aromas of dried raspberry and plum, a hint of anise and an elegant earthiness evocative of stems, tomato leaf and mushroom. Light in both body and acidity, flavors of fresh cranberry, clove and cherry are tamed by minerality and dry finish.
La Miraja estate is located within a castle that dates to the 11th century and is the life's work of a seventh generation viticulturist, Eugenio Gatti. Grignolino has been prized since the Middle Ages for its unusual flavor and the viticultural skill required to extract tannin from the grape’s delicate, thin skin. This cultivar is unusual for having multiple pips (seeds) per berry and the name “Grignolino” is thought to have been derived from the word “grigne,” which is the local dialect for pips.”
-Liz
L'année Blanc - 2018 Les Clos Perdus
L'année Blanc - 2018 Les Clos Perdus
65% Macabeu, 30% Grenache gris, and 5% Muscat from 5 different parcels. Varying levels of skin contact and harvest times mean that differing lots are basket pressed and cold settled as batches, but ultimately fermented together, with indigenous yeast, in a single 3000L.
As indicated by name, the ‘L’Année’ wines describe characteristics of the year in which they were produced, rather than a specific terroir. From vineyards in Montner, Maury and near Mas de las Fredas, with varying aspects and soil.
Elevage is in barrel and stainless steel with extended solid contact.
Organic, with certification from Ecocert. Biodynamic, with certification from Demeter.
No fining, bottled with light filtration.
Our Take:
“Melon and honey come through, but it's the citrus bite that lingers. Beautiful body, great texture and mouthfeel. Good cat sitting wine. Although lovely and shines on its own, I would definitely drink with the Parm Whiz.
The 2018 L'année Blanc was delightful and just the thing I needed after a long day. After work I went to my friend's house to hang out with her cats and let me tell you- my dogs were barking! I poured myself a glass of wine and pulled out the favorite of the cat toys. A purrfect evening.”
-Ashley
2019 Fossil & Fawn - Skin Contact Gewürztraminer
Vineyard: Montinore Estate
Appellation: Willamette Valley AVA (as of 2020, Tualatin Hills AVA)
Harvest Date: October 7, 2019
Assemblage: Own-rooted, 37-year old Gewürztraminer
Aging: 3.5 months fermentation, 236 days total skin maceration
Final Alcohol: 12.5%
Production: 173 cases
Fossil and Fawn says: “This vintage we had the pleasure of working with fruit from Montinore Estate, which was planted in the early 1980s and has been farming organically and biodynamically for more than a decade. It was a stroke of luck to get our hands on these gorgeous grapes at the eleventh hour of harvest, after our mainstay Gewürztraminer farmer lost her crop to steady rains that pummeled the valley in late-September. Just like the year before, we allowed the destemmed grapes to ferment whole-berry, on-skins, in an egg-shaped fermentation vessel, with extended maceration for 234 days. Following draining and pressing, we allowed the wine to rest in neutral oak barrels for two months prior to release. As usual, the wine fermented spontaneously with wild yeast, and was bottled unfiltered and unfined.
This is an “orange” wine that literally, no joke, smells and tastes of oranges. And rose water, apricot skins, ground ginger, fresh-dried hay, and late-August sunsets over Oregon’s coast range.”
Our Take:
“I have an unabashed love for aromatic white wines, especially when the fruit spends some time on the skins. This bottle had everything I dream of: tropical aromas like guava and lychee, fresh and dried apricot, roses on the palate, refreshing acidity, and that color!! So dreamy. If you haven’t had a dry Gewürztraminer before, you’re in for a treat.
I want to drink this alongside fresh spring rolls and spicy cold noodles. It’s also perfect with Basque-style cheesecake, which I know from personal experience. (If you want to get your hands on some of the cheesecake in question, pull up to Ro on a Tuesday between 2 and 9pm for Chef Rasheed’s Naija Boy Taco Tuesdays.)”
-Kelly
Maurer Fodor 2020 Olaszrizling 2019
Subotica, Serbia. Everything is handpicked in small bins and all fermentations are spontaneous (primary and secondary). The use of older oak, small and large format is paramount. There are no additives to any of the wines apart from SO2 at bottling for select wines.
This 56-year-old and small berry clone bush-trained 1 hectare vineyard was Oszkár’s great grandmother's dowry. The vineyard borders the Szelevényi nature reserve by only a 3 meter wide road. The wildlife and cover crops nearly mimic the forest. Oszkár also remembers his grandfather saying that Olaszrizling needs time with the skins in order to survive. Back then, there were no additions to the wines and Oszkár is keeping with both traditions. 5 days on the skins, all barrel, and no additions of any kind. He’s also fond of describing this wine as grease and motor oil for the soul even though he prefers only man and horse in the vineyard. Wine from Fodor encapsulates the farming and the cellar from these older generations and has great significance to Oszkár. The 2019 is an intense concentration of flavors packed into 11.7% alcohol.
Our Take:
“Our staff loves Maurer! When we first opened Ro Sham Beaux, we had a handful of bottles from this beloved Serbian producer. After what feels like a long hiatus, Maurer is back on our shelves. We’re stoked.
This bottle is all poached quince, orange peel, honey, lychee, earth, and a touch of kerosene. It’s a walk through the coastal forest in the fall—picture juniper trees, wind blowing through stands of eucalyptus, gnarled and bent cypress, and a beach covered in broken shells.”
-Kelly
Johan - Grüner Veltliner
“The varietal character of Grüner Veltliner is intense and highly unique. Our site produces fruit that wants to be rich and exotic, producing significant texture while retaining focus and balance. The 2019 vintage combines direct-to-press and 24-hour skin macerated grapes prior to a long, hard press cycle. The wine was then barrel fermented with native yeasts (both primary and malolactic) in a combination of 500-liter puncheons and 225-liter barriques, and aged sur lie (without stirring) for 17 months.”
Appellation: Van Duzer Corridor
Our Take:
“This wine is the swan song of summer. It is the last swim of September, freezing water though moments before you were hot standing on the dry deck. Laying belly down on the pool floaty as you try to warm up under the sun, goosebumps on your skin. In a minute more you’ll go back in for one more plunge, less cold now that you’ve experienced the shock.
It is the sound of the lawnmower, smell of grass clippings and gasoline all mixing together on the first cool day of October. Sound of a rake and the small pile of crisp leaves, the ground smell damp and rich.
It is the plastic cup of cold apple cider, of biting into fresh pears off the tree, and putting on your new jacket- even if it’s still a little warm out- because it’s time for fall.
It is orange blossoms, the promise of coming winter, but first, the sun shortened days of autumn. cold wine on the porch in the last small strip of warm sun, and a sigh of relief.”
-Juli
Les Déplaude de Tartaras - Vin de France Ciel d'Orage 2019
Meaning "Stormy Sky", Ciel d'Orage is a medium-bodied delight with quiet concentration and a dusty finish from Anne and Pierre-André Déplaude who tend to ~20 hectares of vines in Collines Rhodaniennes, a gem-like appellation long undersung, located just south of Beaujolais and just north of the Northern Rhône growing regions.
70% Gamay, 20% Syrah, 10% Pinot Noir hand-harvested from 23 year-old vines grown on mica schist + gravel soils. The grapes are partly destemmed and part-whole bunches co-fermented, which creates a semi-carbonic environment for a portion of the fermenting-must. After 2 weeks of maceration, the must is pressed and blending ensues. The wine ages for 9 months in concrete tank before being bottled unfined, unfiltered, with no additional SO2.
Our Take:
“'The first thing I noticed about this wine was how perfectly it paired with the cool breeze on the comfortably warm evening we were having as we drift into fall. On the nose- fresh chopped firewood and roses, followed up with a playful amount of tannin, medium acidity and a little cayenne on the finish. This isn't your auntie's Gamay, it's got some undeniable character that will leave you with a thousand yard stare in-between sips. How is this wine soft and delicate but also like a bloody steak? Magic, but also it's got Pinot and Syrah in it too, so maybe that's how. Save it for a Thanksgiving flex, or don’t! Cheers!”
-Eric
Wino Wrestling Federation #7
Ode to the vigneron
In Praise of the Vigneron
WWF Lineup ~ AUGUST 2021
When I think of natural wine, I think of the vigneron: a person who cultivates grapes for winemaking. When the winemaker is involved in the growing process, cultivating the vines, and tending them throughout the year, they necessarily become intimately familiar with the land. They become tuned in to the seasons, and the smell of the vineyard in the early morning. They learn the names of the flowers and weeds that grow around the vines, and are careful to not disturb the rare birds nests they find in the vines. They can’t ignore the concept of terroir and the role it plays in the finished product--the wine. It’s all around them.
The vigneron is there to prune and to shoot thin, to watch the bud break, to witness the shifts all the way through harvest season. And then, once the fruit has been pressed, fermented, and bottled, the cycle begins again.
This past season, I was presented with the opportunity to help some of my friends in their vineyards. They don’t have their own vineyard; rather, they offer their time and labor in exchange for the fruit that they would otherwise purchase from the owners. They act as stewards to the land, fostering the grapes from dormancy to ripeness, and in some cases even rehabilitating vines and teaching the land owners about better practices, guiding them towards a more natural approach to vineyard maintenance.
While purchasing one’s fruit to make wine with is not inherently inferior to the vigneron model, there’s something undeniably special about drinking a wine whose maker also grew the fruit. This month we present to you some very special cuvees made by women who know the value of tending the land. When you drink them, think about the land from which they come.
Ode to the vigneron!
- Kelly Rowe
Aline Beaune -
Aligote 2019
Varietal: Aligoté
Region: Saterney, France
Viticulture: Certified Organic as of 2020 with Biodynamic practices
Vinification: Elevage in neutral cask rounds everything out and melds it all together.
Taste: Golden Apple, Lemon, White Peach, White Flowers
Our Take:
This 2019 Bourgogne Aligoté by Aline Beauné Is wonderfully well balanced and bright. It’s like Chardonnays fun aunt, she’ll sit you down to have that serious talk but then she’s taking your ass to Disneyland.
On the nose it bursts with golden apple and delicate white flowers, leading into some un ripe peach and earthy herbs later on.
It’s light bodied, dry and has lots of bouncy acidity
On the pallet it starts out slightly creamy juicy and then gives way to a little bite of lemon pith and ends with some great smoky notes of burning sage.
I would pair this wine with white fish in a lemon caper sauce or some rich melty cheese
- Megan Walker
Producer Notes:
Aline has been making wine at the top tier in Santenay for over a decade, but all the while her parents have been renting out a familial plot in Montagny. In 2018, the contract with the previous tenants on 5 HA of prime vineyard land expired. Aline jumped at the opportunity to take over these vines and start her own domain. The previous tenants were farming responsibly, but Aline felt the land had more to offer. She is transitioning to organic farming and already using some biodynamic treatments to ease this transition for the vines. The wines in 2018 are shimmering and gorgeous - and she is just getting started.
Terre Des Dames -
La Diva 2016
Varietal: Syrah (55%) Grenache (35%) Alicante (15%) from a 100- year-old vine.
Producer: Lidewij van Wilge
Region: Murviel-Lès-Béziers, France
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Vinification: Harvested and sorted by hand. Aged in 600 french oak barrels for 12 months. Bottled by the lunar calendar to best respect the living character of the wine.
Taste: Ripe Cherries, Blueberry, Black currant, Plum, Cedar
Our Take:
Tastes like: an overripe cherries served in a wooden bowl.
Smells like: summer blackberries being freshly picked. Note: I have never actually experienced this action but I imagine that is what it would at least smell like.
I'm also pretty confident that this would pair nicely with a beautifully marbled steak but I don't have one of those. I do know that it compliments a fig bar that you're snacking on as you hurriedly do your assigned wine homework, that is this, an hour before work.
The color resembles that of a deep ruby gem. Therefore, this is a jewel in the Nile of wines.
- Rhaisa
Producer Notes:
Terre des Dames (“Land of the Ladies”) is led by the fearless and fierce Lidewij van Wilgen (Lee). At 30, she and her husband left the world of advertising in the Netherlands to refurbish a run-down 18th century farmhouse in the Languedoc outside the medieval town of Murviel-Lès-Béziers.
When they and their three daughters moved in, both the house and the vines were in poor shape. While those were under renovations, Lee studied oenology at the local school where she faced scrutiny because she was neither French nor a man. Meanwhile, her neighbors were pressuring her to pull out the old vines, replant with high production, and spray, spray, spray. To which she adamantly refused. Oh, and she and her husband divorced, leaving her alone to tend to the farm, the house renovations, and three girls.
Thanks to her determination, Lee was one of only three students in her class of 30 to graduate, and now enjoys the concentrated, beautiful, organically grown fruit from her old vines (most between 50-70 years, with one parcel over 100).
Lee farms 14ha in total, all organic (certified 2009), and regularly reduces yields below 40hl/ha. She sorts rigorously and uses a gentle hand in the cellar. Always native yeasts, and minimal oak for aging.
Martha Stouman - Post Flirtation White 2020
Varietal: 75% Colombard, 12% Marsanne, 9% Roussanne, 4% Muscat blanc
Producer: Martha Stouman
Region: Sebastopol, California
Viticulture: Colombard comes from Ricetti Vineyard in Mendocino County; planted in 1948; certified organic; dry farmed on loam.
Roussanne, Marsanne, and Muscat blanc come from The Urban Edge Farm in Contra Costa County; certified organic, sandy soils.
Vinification: The co-fermented CoCo fruit (Marsanne, Roussanne, and Muscat blanc) is all tumbled in the press to get just a hint of skin contact before pressing, then juice is fermented on full lees in stainless steel. Early season Colombard is also fermented in stainless steel and adds all the zippiness to this blend. We like both the filtered and hazy versions of this wine, and went unfiltered for the 2020 vintage. We move the wine as little as possible to preserve the CO2 produced from fermentation, which acts as a natural preservative and gives the mouthfeel a little boost. The final blend was bottled after 6 months of aging and once malolactic fermentation was complete.
Taste:
Our Take:
Producer Notes:
“This is always a fun wine to make, as it marks the beginning of harvest in late August. The Urban Edge Farm is located outside of Oakley, Contra Costa County (affectionately CoCo). The weather and soils of CoCo are reminiscent of the Mediterranean, with a hot land mass, super duper sandy soils, and a near constant cooling wind coming off of the very cold, salty waters of the Carquinez Strait. The old vine Colombard in this blend is versatile, as it maintains basically the same sugar level and acidity on the vine from August to November. When picked in late August it reminds me of a featherweight Basque Txakoli (while our late season Colombard going into our Honeymoon has a more Chenin-like characteristic). The combination of these two vineyards results in a wine full of summer flavors, slightly salty, and extremely drinkable.”
-Martha Stouman
Anne Sophie Dubois - Les Cocettes 2019
Varietal: 100% Gamay
Producer: Anne Sophie Dubois
Region: Fleurie, Beaujolais, France
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Vinification: Hand Harvested, whole bunch carbonic maceration. Pressed in a vertical press
Taste: tart cherries, pomegranate juice, white pepper
Our Take:
Producer Notes:
“Because it is important to never lose touch with its vines, I am first and foremost a winegrower. 80% of the wine is made in the vineyard. Being a wine grower, it is primarily a vocation”
Anne Sophie’s vines are all located in the AOC Fleurie on 400 meter high west by southwest facing slopes that exceed 30% grade. The soils are pink granite. The vineyards form a “cirque” like amphitheater of 18 plots. She began Organic certification in 2018.
In the cellar she continues the respect for the purity and life of the product as she had in the vineyard. All grapes are hand harvested. All juice is pressed with a vertical press.
Autour de L’Anne - Pot d’Anne
Varietal: Malbec, Cab Franc
Region: Cahors, France
Viticulture: Biodynamic
Vinification: Fermented in old oak or cement, partial carbonic maceration, unfined and unfiltered, < 30 ppm SO2
Taste: Plum, Cherry, Marijuana
Our Take:
Like a true Californian, the first words out of my mouth after seeing the label was, oooo! Pot wine! Surprise to us all, the initial aroma after popping the top was a strong hemp smell. Influenced? maybe, herbaceous, yes. Along with the fresh picked weed, my sniffer sent visions of sugar plums and fresh pressed cranberries.
Initially as I tasted it I found one of my fav red wine characteristics, a sort of ziiiiiiiing on my tongue. I translate that as it tastes alive, fresh, and dances on your taste buds.Bright flavors of tart cherries and unripe plum fill my mouth with every sip. It is light to medium in body and there’s a lovely parmesan cheese and marzipan flavor in the finish. I’ll take a case please, thanks.
— Brooke Arthur
Producer Notes: Happy accident? Anne Paillet had spent years working for a large industrial company in La Defense (financial district of Paris), when a serious car accident made her realize that corporate life was not the life for her. Seeking a new reality, she left her job in 2010 to join her husband Gregory Leclerc, a natural winemaker in the Loire.
Always up for a challenge, Anne wanted to make different wines than her husband, with different grapes on a different terroir. She also realized that she needed her own vines for the style of wine that she felt inspired to make.
Anne’s friend Christophe Beau, a biodynamic producer in Coteaux du Languedoc, offered her a partnership on his 6ha estate, renting her 2.5 ha of his land. In 2011 Autour de l’Anne was created, with the help of Christophe and his son Victor.
Anne hand-harvests the grapes and fermentation occurs naturally with wild yeasts in concrete tank without any SO2. The particularity of the estate is that at the end of fermentation, Anne takes the wine to the Loire to finish its aging at Gregory’s winery .
Anne told us that the style of her wines tends to be more similar to wines from the Loire Valley than the Languedoc. She avoids heaviness and high alcohol level, preferring lighter, terroir-expressive wines.
Vin de la Gamba - Mehr Frauen? Ja Bitte!
Varietal: Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Riesling
Producer: Alanna Lagamba
Region: Rhienhessen, Germany
Viticulture: Organic
Taste: Bright Cherry, Raspberry Soda
Our Take:
This one is youth incarnate. It’s got a bit of fizz to it and a slight electricity that makes for a vivacious drinking experience. Tons of red fruit with a playful tickle on the tongue.
Allana Lagamba is part of a new generation of winemakers who are bringing a refreshing edge to the winemaking community at large. Her origins are Canadian but after meeting Marto Worner in berlin and working in his vineyards in the Rheinhessen. She hit the scene with her first vintage Frauen Power in 2018
Noella Morantin - Tango Atlantico 2018
Varietal: 60% Cabernet Franc, 40% Cot
Producer: Noella Morantin
Region: Touraine, Loire, France
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Taste: Black Currant, Cassis, Blueberry, Raspberry, Earthy, Mushroom
Our Take:
Noella Morantin is originally from Pornic, a small town bordering the Atlantic ocean. Her father had a little vineyard and would make wine for personal consumption but she didn’t pursue the path of a vigneronne until she had a chance encounter with a professor of viticulture who encouraged her to give it a shot. She got her BS in agriculture/oenology in 2004 at which point she was working for Agnes and Rene Mosse (One of the RSB teams favorite producers). She went to the Salon de Vins de Loire, an annual wine trade fair in the Loire, where she met Junk Arai from Bois Lucas whom was looking for someone to replace Pascal Potaire as the main overseer of the estate. She was trained by Pascal and oversaw the estate until 2008 when she started to oversee who own vines.
Noella ages her wine in barrel for a long time and adapts to the wines needs as time goes on but without any chemical intervention aside from a small amount of SO2 at bottling for preservation.
Wino Wrestling Federation #5 Soils
Dirt don’t hurt
WWF Lineup ~ JUNE 2021
Dirt Don’t Hurt
This month we are focusing on wines with unique soils, specifically Volcanic and Limestone. I think this is a fun way to consider regionality without bowing down to nationalism. The earth has been doing its thing long before we started to draw borders. Soil is a topic that comes up often in the wine world, and rightly so, without soil us as humans would have very little to do with being alive on this planet and the same goes for grapevines. Soil plays three main roles when it comes to grapevines 1. It provides a stable environment for which the vines and roots can affix themselves too. 2. It is the repository for water. 3. It’s a source for nutrients that are vital to plant growth.
Volcanic Soils are derived from the weathering of igneous rock, ash and pomace that gets distributed by volcanic activity. As we all remember from 4th grade science, igneous rock is the part of the rock cycle where metamorphic rock becomes molten and then decides to make its way to the surface, sometimes rather violently. There is a huge variety of volcanic soils with all kinds of different granular make-ups. Volcanic soils provide an excellent balance of minerals such as lime and soda, low water retention and tend to produce wines with a good amount of salinity.
Limestone Soils are sedimentary soils of which the principle component is calcium carbonate. It is rare here in California where there is a vein on the coast near Santa Cruz and and in the Sierra Foothills where the Rorick Heritage vineyards lays claim. Limestone soils are rich in nutrients, reflective when chalky, due to its structure limestone retains moisture in dry climates but offer good drainage in wetter weather. Since limestone tends to be more alkaline it is beneficial for grapes with a high acidity
- Addam
Domaine Ostertag - Les Jardins 2019 - Pinot Blanc
Varietal: 100% Pinot Blanc
Region: Alsace, France
Soil: : 6 gardens of vines in Epfig, in the Domaine garden and the Fronholz, on 2 natures of soil : clay and silt ; marl and sandstone.
Viticulture: Certified Biodynamic ( Since 1998, one of the first in the region)
Vinification: Hand Harvested, Gentle pressing, fermentation with indigenous yeast until dry. Aged in old 228L oak barrels for 9 months
Colour: Pale Yellow
Nose: Apple, Petrichor, Apricot
Taste: Apple, Peach, Lemon, Chamomile, Pear, Honey
Our Take:
I don't want to make your eyes glaze over with how these Pinot Blanc vines are literally fighting for their lives in this limestone, clay and granite soil. That dirt literally looks like it was taken from the yard in front of Santa's fucking workshop in the North Pole. I won't even go into why this wine is probably the best shit you're going to drink all summer in Sacramento, no matter how many wine shops you visit... Instead, I'd rather be frank- it doesn't matter if you want to flex on some friends or family , whether you're eating BBQ or a dope salad from your sick COVID garden- DRINK THIS SHIT NOW. Drink several bottles of it. You can't ignore it. Get to know it like your crush. It's very obvious you are drinking a piece of art with this Pinot Blanc- unbelievably dry, vibrant and a little tannic because Andre Ostertag doesn't give a fuck about grape varietals, just the dirt they're grown in. Skål!
- Eric Cockrell
Producer Notes:
To call André Ostertag a revolutionary winemaker is to tell just half the story. He is a pioneer, certainly, but also an ardent environmentalist (as demonstrated in both his wine and his sculpture, another passion). After training in Burgundy, André returned to the family domaine in Alsace with renewed zeal: he lowered yields considerably and introduced viticultural and vinification techniques from other regions to his own home ground. The 1996 vintage marked his first collaboration with KLWM, and the following year he brought biodynamic viticulture to his fourteen hectares of vineyards, including his flagship parcel in the Muenchberg Grand Cru. There is poetry to Ostertag’s practices. He looks for the nuance of terroir rather than the typicity of a grape varietal. In an act of rejection against the official classifications dictated by the A.O.C., he made up his own categories: Vins de Fruit that express fruit character rather than that of a specific vineyard site, Vins de Pierre reflecting the terroir from which they originate, and Vin de Temps that rely on time and weather to encourage the development of botrytis. He ferments the majority of his wines completely dry, so their versatility at the table surpasses that of many other wines from the region. In Ostertag’s experience, a careful use of oak subtly enhances the traditional Alsatian varietals from the Pinot family, giving them greater depth on the palate. He uses oak sourced exclusively from the Vosges Mountains and, for his Pinots, prefers barriques to the traditional foudres. He rejects formulaic, scientifically engineered wines, and since going biodynamic in 1997, has been an active member of the natural farming community. As he so beautifully explains in Kermit Lynch’s Inspiring Thirst, …true quality is that which succeeds in surprising and moving us. It is not locked inside a formula. Its essence is subtle (subjective) and never rational. It resides in the unique, the singular, but it is ultimately connected to something more universal. A great wine is one in which quality is contained. Such a wine will necessarily be uncommon and decidedly unique because it cannot be like any other, and because of this fact it will be atypical, or only typical of itself. (p 279) That is a quote we wish more wine critics would take to heart.
Maloof - Where ya PJs At? - Pinot Gris & Riesling
Varietal: 80% Skin Contact Pinot Gris, 20% Riesling
Region: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Viticulture: Organic
Soil: Jory (colluvium derived from igneous rock)
Vinification: 80% Skin contact Pinot Gris (equal amounts Rudolfo & Beckenridge), 20% Riesling The majority of the rudolfo gris was fermented in open top fermenters on the skins, with daily punch downs until dry (16 days). 10% of the Rudolfo gris was fermented carbonically in a sealed container for the same length of time. The two lots were pressed off together, and then moved into barrel. The Beckenridge gris was fermented in open top bins on the skins, with daily punchdowns until dry (17 days) The Riesling was direct pressed, and fermented in neutral oak barrels. All of the lots were blended in the late winter, and bottled unfined and unfiltered in March. 22ppm sulfur
Colour: Ombre Pink/Purple
Nose: Strawberry, Cream, Lemongrass, Lime Peel
Taste: Raspberry, Peach, Green Strawberry, Saline,
Our Take:
I drank this in a hot tub. It ruled. 5 out of 5 stars.
Producer Notes:
A true yin and yang team. One materials engineer grounded in hard science, and one restaurant professional with a sensory aligned M.O. Two nerds with a penchant for good hospitality and properly fermented pizza dough.
Bee Maloof represents the hard science behind the project. Prior to playing with grapes, she worked for close to a decade as a materials science engineer within the aerospace industry. As a long-time lover of food and wine, Bee turned her scientific eye from rotorcraft to winemaking during the 2016 harvest.
Ross Maloof broke into the production side of the wine industry initially by traveling to Oregon to visit some friends, and ended up working harvest in the Willamette Valley. Prior to getting his first taste for winemaking, he worked for just over a decade in the Philadelphia dining scene, with a huge focus on beverage.
Maloof Wines has been making juice since 2015, and today are proudly produced alongside our best pals from Fossil & Fawn at our estate vineyard, No Clos Radio, just outside of Forest Grove, OR.
Don’t you dare hesitate to reach out to us!
Yours in grapes n such,
Ross & Bee
TRAPL - Uni6
Varietal: Zweigelt, Sankt Laurent, Blaufrankisch
Region: Carnuntum, Austria
Soil: Limestone, Loam, Loess and Gravels
Viticulture:
Vinification: 100% Whole Cluster, 1-2 Days maceration, fermented in stainless steel and aged in both barrel and Qvevri for 8 months
Colour: Magenta
Nose: Guava, Cherry, Caramelized Sugar
Taste: Cranberry, Pomegranate, Blood Orange, Strawberry
Our Take:
We all know this feeling of regret, “Shit, I drank too much today, this wasn’t the plan”. I think for most of us, or at least the people that I spend most my time around that feeling is a good que to say, “fuck it” and keep the party going. Luckily my boss and favorite enabler has given me a bottle of wine to take as homework.
There’s a ram on the side of the bottle and the city of Sacramento recently hired a mob of goats to clean out the weeds on a plot of land next to my house. I suggest you drink this wine cold and let a little bit of you first glass warm up to really taste the expression, but it’s definitely best out of the fridge and cold. So, I pack up a cooler with my bottle of UNI6, grab my folding camp chair that’s stained with ash burns of all varieties and hike down the street to hang out with goats.
Sit down, open the bottle, pour and smell, “It’s got some stank to it! Maybe that’s just the goats?”. I squeeze my nose through the fencing to get a better whiff of the goats, “That’s not it, must be the wine”. At Ro Sham Beaux we take pride in stank, funk and odd aromas it’s a driving force in our entire ethos. Don’t worry we still wear deodorant, for the most part. This rose is off to a good start. I say the color is magenta, but my mom always tells me “Boys are colored blind”. Let’s just say if you take this wine to the beach, people will drop their White Claws in the sand as they rush over to ask you “What type of drank is that?”.
Bright, acidic, juicy and slightly bubbly when you open it the UNI6 is a perfect banger summer rose. This bottle is only 10.5% ABV which is perfect for the tapped-out liver or if you want to be the person who always has a drink in their hand at the barbeque. The wine tastes like the product of a sensual night between a blood orange and a pomegranate. When the glass warms up a little, I start smelling a little bit of caramelized sugar. Don’t feel rushed to drink it all in one night, the wine holds up well for at least a day.
I hang out with the goats while I drink a glass or two. I start explaining to the goats how there’s more to life than just going through the motions. Nobody listens because, goats are stubborn and hardheaded. “Fine! You don’t want to take my advice? I know when my company isn’t wanted!” So, I stumble home and make a veggie melt. The gooey rich cheese and light but complex flavors from the vegetables pair perfectly with this juicy, light and acidic rose.
All in all, it's a successful night spent alongside a beautifully fruity and acidic rose and a bunch of stinky goats. I hope you guys enjoy this bottle as much as I do.
- Alex Schildgen
Producer Notes:
Johannes Trapl founded his winery in 2003 when he was just 25 years old. It was Johannes' grandfather that planted most of the family estate’s vineyards in Carnuntum, a region known at the time for big, inexpensive Zweigelt wines. After working for Cardinale winery in California, Johannes took over the responsibility of managing the small family winery with initially only half a hectare (1 acre) of vineyards and also worked for the nearby Muhr-van der Niepoort estate. Today, together with Dorli Muhr of Muhr-van der Niepoort, Johannes Trapl is coinstigator of the renaissance of Spitzerberg, a small extension of the Little Carpathians made of limestone and schist, which can produce wines with extraordinary elegance and minerality. The wine-growing region Carnuntum stretches from the eastern limits of Vienna to the border of Slovakia. The vineyards are dispersed in three hilly landscapes: the Leitha Mountains, the Arbesthaler Hills near Göttlesbrunn and the Hainburger Mountain. Heavy loam and loess soils and sandy gravelly soils dominate the slopes of the Arbesthaler Hills in Stixneusiedl. The hot summers and cold winters that characterize the Pannonian climate, the proximity of the moderating effects of the Danube River and Lake Neusiedl allow red grapes to ripen perfectly.
-Eric Danch, Danch & Granger Selections
Domaine Miolane - Pinot Noir 2018
Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir
Region: Cote d’Auvergne, France
Soil: Basalt
Viticulture: Organic
Colour: Eggplant
Nose: Cherry, Leather, Slate
Taste: Black Cherry, Plum, Saline,
Our Take:
If you’ve ever been through the Central Valley on a blazing hot California summer day, you’re going to know exactly what I’m about to say: It’s 108 degrees outside, you’re driving some backroad lined with nut orchards somewhere outside of Lodi, or maybe it’s Escalón. The highway is rippling with heat, and every few miles there is a roadside stand hocking almonds, strawberries, cherries.
You stop at one of these stands and pick up the five pound bag of ripe, black cherries, and you sit in the car with the doors open, a slight breeze passing through and the flesh of the cherry so sun-hot in your mouth from the dusty heat of the day that the flavor seems impossibly concentrated- a deeper sweeter cherry than you think you’ve ever had before.
You sit in your car saving the fruit until your hands are stained purple and there’s a cup full of pits in the center consul cup holder, the gentle breeze (still 100 degrees in the shade) passing over the skin of your arms and the woozy occasional whooshing of a car along the county highway nearby.
This Pinot noir is the embodiment of that experience. Black cherry, dark plum, leather and dusty soil and the hot baking sun on river rocks or country highway. Full enough to fill you but light enough to quench your thirst like handful after handful of roadside cherries.
- Julianna Boggs
Producer Notes:
Located in the Cotes d’Auvergne in the southern Loire Valley, Domaine Miolanne allows the volcanic terroir to speak through their Gamay and Pinot Noir vines. The region is centered around one of the oldest french cities of Clermont-Ferrand, which is perhaps most famous for the Michelin tire factory. The vine has been cultivated here for least 1500 years, with the appellation finally achieving AOP status in 2011.
There are 2 separate areas of dormant volcanoes that have not erupted for at least 7500 years, and which have helped to shape the interesting topography of the region. Odette and Gilles Miolanne own 17 hectares of grains and vines in the southern end of the appellation. They planted vines in 1994 with 3 hectares of Pinot Noir and 1.5 hectares of Gamay. They produce both a red and rosé wine, and all farming is done without the use of herbicides or pesticides. Harvesting is by hand with minimal intervention in the cellar.
Wino Wrestling Federation #4 VESSELS
Oak, Clay, Concrete and Steel
WWF Lineup ~ APRIL 2021
Lets get into the nurture…
Thanks once again for joining us on our voyage to taste rad wine, we are really happy to have y’all here. This month we are focusing on how wine is aged (Elevage is the classic term) in the winery before bottling. Every grape varietal has its own character and sometimes that character can be enhanced or manipulated based on what vessel the wine matures in. Just like us, wine is a product of its environment. We have 4 wines that represent a few of the options that winemakers choose to “raise” their wine in. Oak, Steel, Clay and Concrete. The main thing to note about aging vessel is its permeability and how it “breaths”. Also akin to us, wine is both enhanced and destroyed by oxygen. Winemaker’s control how much oxygen a wine interacts with to reach the desired character.
Lets start with the most restrictive aging vessel, that being Steel. With its complete lack of permeability steel can preserve a wines freshness. Many white wines are aged in steel so that the bright fruits and aromas don’t volatize out. Steel has many benefits! It is infinitely reusable, easy to clean, durable and air tight. Some wineries have glycol jackets on their tanks to keep wines at specific temperatures during fermentation and aging. A winemaker has a gnarly amount of control over the fate of a wine when using steel. That said steel does have its set backs, not all wine benefits from that lack of oxygen interaction. When a wine is made anaerobically reduction can occur which leads to some volatile sulfur compounds. It’s that flinty, matchstick eggy smell that happens when you first open a bottle. Splash your wine or decant it and it should blow right off.
Oak barrels and foudres, it’s the thing most of us think of when it comes to wine. It’s one of the most widely used vessels out there. Oak is also the vessel with the most amount of oxygen exchange. Oak also comes in many variations from wood type (French, American, Hungarian), size and whether the oak is new or neutral. I will be honest, I am not the biggest fan of new oak, its the siracha of the wine world, oak a wine and it taste like oak, no judgement just my opinion. But as a barrel is used over time it losses the flavor it imparts upon the wine (usually 4+ years) and becomes a really awesome choice for elevage. You can impart a lot of character by having that extended time in barrel and make for a really “serious” wine.
Concrete is cool, it is porous but doesn’t impart any flavor to the wine, even a neutral oak barrel will leach out some tannin and oak vibes, where concrete you get that middle ground. Concrete is also reusable almost infinitely. Ergonomically, concrete can be a little troublesome and a winery would have to sort of be built around the use of concrete tanks, unless you can afford a concrete egg (usually around 14k for a 450 gal tank). I will say almost every wine making region has its share of producers who use concrete, stay on the lookout!
Clay is the oldest vessel for fermentation and aging. It has been around since the Neolithic era with the oldest vessels found in Georgia where it is still used today. Perhaps drinking Georgian wine is the closest link to the ancient world of wine we have. Quevri (kway-vree) is how our wine club pick is fermented and aged. Its usually buried in the ground, sometimes even in the vineyard rows so you can throw the grapes directly in. By burying these large earthenware pots one can keep the wine cool as fermentation tends to get very hot in confined spaces and makes for a very natural way of temperature control. Qvevri are similar to concrete in that they are flavor neutral and have about the same amount of oxygen exchange.
Lets us drink
- Addam
Concrete:
De Fermo - Concrete Rosso 2019 - Montepulciano
Varietal: 100% Montepulciano
Region: Loreto Apruntino, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Italy
Colour: Garnet
Nose: Violets, Strawberry,
Taste: Cherry, Iron, Plum, Pepper
Soil: Calcareous clay
Farming: Biodynamic
Vinification: Concrete Rosso comes from across all four of De Fermo's certified-biodynamic Montepulciano parcels where vines are about 25 years old; the fruit is hand-harvested later than that for Le Cince rosato and earlier than for the aged Prologo red. The bunches are destemmed, crushed and macerated for only 4-5 days, with the goal of a younger-drinking version of this very tannic grape. Fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeasts and no temperature control. The wine is aged in concrete tanks--hence the very literal name--for up to a year and bottled without fining or filtering; sulfur is used judiciously during racking but never at bottling.
Our Take:
Bold but not bracing, It is what you want from an Italian wine. Juicy fruits that are on the riper side of just right, with a little bit of those tertiary herbs riding the wave. Fresh and rustic… would be cool to revisit this vintage in a few years.
Producer Notes:
“The farm is located in Loreto Aprutino (Abruzzo), halfway between the Adriatic sea (20km) and the southernmost European glacier (20km).
In the vineyard, which covers 17 hectares at 270-320 meters of altitude, biodynamic principles are applied since 2009.We do not add or use selected yeasts and we don’t control fermentation temperatures. We do not fine and/or filter wines.
We grow biodinamically also olives, legumes, cereals, vegetables, herbs and animals.
We produce olive oil, flours, pasta, bread, vegetables and cheese.”
- Stefano Papetti Ceroni
OAK:
Bott Frigyes - Unfiltered Olasrizling 2019
Varietal: 100% Olaszrizling
Region: Južnoslovenská, Slovakia
Colour: Golden Straw
Nose: Ginger, Orange Rind, Pear
Taste: Pear, Sencha Green Tea, Almond, Coriander
Farming: Organic, converting Biodynamic
Soil: Clay on volcanic bedrock
Vinification: Half open vat fermented for a week in three layers: foot trodden, whole clusters, and destemmed and half whole bunch pressed and aged 1 year in Hungarian oak.
Our Take:
This is so F**cking good. Super electric acidity (you’ll see what I mean) It’s dynamite neon sunshine cream. The winemaking process here is just super cool and everything about this wine is cool. I’d drink this anywhere, with anyone, any day, any time . That’s my professional take on it. Sue me. Great texture, great fun.
Producer Notes:
After WWI, Hungary lost around 71% of its territory to Romania, Ukraine, Czechoslovakia (Slovakia), Yugoslavia (Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia) and Austria. Over 3 million ethnic Hungarians found themselves outside of Hungary with significant outcome on the grapes and traditions that never stopped or are now coming back to life beyond the present day borders of Hungary. On the southern slopes of the Mužsla Hills in Slovakia surrounded by the river Garam, Danube and the Ipoly rivers, is one such example: Bott Frigyes. Even the neighboring village of Béla is where Judit and József Bodó of Bott Pince began their winemaking career (ethnically Hungarian but born in Slovakia) before moving to Tokaj. Long story short, a whole bunch of things all came together with Bott Frigyes coupled with great farming, honest winemaking, and delicious wines.
Bott and his son Frici cultivate 10 hectares of vineyards next to the River Garam, at 250 metres above sea level. They are growing Furmint, Hárslevelű (Lipovina in Slovakia), Juhfark, Kékfrankos, Kadarka (cuttings are incidentally from Balla Géza in Romania who is also ethnically Hungarian), Tramini, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sárfahér and Olaszrizling. The soil is clay on top of volcanic bedrock, which is also rich in limestone and minerals
The winemaking is certainly structured in terms of technique, although all fermentations are native, there’s zero temperature control, longer lees aging, natural settling, all oak barrel (some amphora), and bottling unfined and unfiltered with a small amount of SO2 at bottling as the only addition. For the reds, they do use the “Hamberger” method which is essentially alternating layers of whole cluster (foot stomped), topped with whole cluster, then topped with a destemmed and hand crushed layer. This achieves a semi-carbonic quality to the wines without developing too much of the banana or bubble gum often associated with carbonic. For the skin contact whites, it’s often no more than a week, and they are careful to keep it worked over to prevent VA and other flaws. The winemaking overall is tied to tradition but with a nod to modern hygiene in the cellar.
- Eric Danch, Danch and Granger Selections
Steel:
Dolores Cabrera Fernandez - La Araucaria Rosato 2018 - Listan Negro
Varietal: 100% Listan Negro
Region: Valle de La Orotava DO, Tenerife, Canary Islands
Colour: Fuchsia
Nose: Cranberry, Yogurt
Taste: Red and Black Brambles, Parsnip, Nectarine, Peppercorn,
Farming: Organic
Soil: Volcanic
Method: 100 year old vines on the slopes of Mount Teide. Vines are trained in the unique cordón trenzado (“braided cord”) method. The grapes were hand-harvested between late September and mid October, destemmed and skin-macerated for 12 hours before bleeding off the juice (without pressing) into steel tank. The wine then fermented and rested on fine lees for 7 months, with bottling in the spring using natural (vegetal protein) clarification and a light filtration and minimal added SO2.
Our Take:
I’ve had very few interactions with Listan Negro, but each time I am into it. Upon opening this bottle you can tell that it had been hidden away from oxygen in steel with its reductive matchstick nose. Be not afraid after a few swirls in the glass it starts to open up and you can start to really smell the fruit. As Jasper, one of our team members, said upon it revealing its true nature “This is a serious rose” and he is not wrong. Its well structured and nuanced. One to open at the beginning of a meal, preferably something with some char on it, and taste through the evening.
Producer Notes:
Dolores Cabrera is a long-time farmer working in the Valle de la Orotava, Tenerife. Her vineyards have always been worked organically, with a portion of the parcels being certified organic. After selling her grapes to larger producers for many years, Dolores started making and bottling her own wine in 2013. The product of her efforts is La Araucaria, a singular and natural approach to the Listan Negro grape, the predominate grape of her region.
The D.O. of Valle de La Orotava is located in northern Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, and named after its historic town. Wine-growing dates back to the Spanish conquest of the 15th century, and this is the oldest of the 5 appellations on the island. The valley is shaped by Pico del Teide, the 3rd largest active volcano in the world with its peak at 3715 meters. The hot maritime climate is moderated by the cool, humid trade winds blowing off the coast throughout the year.
Clay:
Kortavebis Marani, - Rkatsiteli 2019
Varietal: 100% Rkatsiteli
Region: Kekheti, Georgia
Colour: Whiskey, yup Whiskey
Nose: Raisin, Honey, Apricot
Taste: Orange Marmalade, Bruised Pear, Quince
Farming: Organic
Soil: Clay and stony soils
Method: 9 months on skins, no stems, in qvevri followed by a 9 month elevage in qvevri.
Our Take: I’m always the sad guy who cracks open a bottle of wine, pours then realizes it’s too cold. Thankfully orange wines are versatile, and this Georgian skin contact wine is no exception. It’s the kind of wine that you can pull out of the cooler and eat string cheese and potato chips with because it offers that bright crisp acidity when it’s cold. Real magic happens when the bottle starts to sweat. Pleasant and light sherry like oxidation hit the cheeks, silky texture and the aroma of orange marmalade start to take over. That’s when it hit me, this is either Duck or Chinese food wine. Shit, why not both? The caramelized orange flavor pairs amazingly with a take-out roast duck and boas. This isn’t the kind of wine that creates new flavors with food, somehow when paired with fatty meats it actually brings out tannin you might not have noticed before.
- Alex Schildgen, RSB
Producer Notes:
Kortava Cellar is located in Eastern Georgia, in the Kvareli region of Kakheti, near the historic Gremi fortress. This region, particularly the Kindzmarauli zone, is renown for having a climate favorable for viticulture.
”Our cellar was established in 2014 and spans 2 hectares of traditional and rare grapes. In our vineyards only organic ingredients are used; during the winemaking process we never employ chemical additives.
Two methods are used at Kortava Cellar to produce wine: traditional “Kakhetian style” where the pomace is added to Qvevri (clay jugs), and “European methods” where wine is matured in clay jugs or oak barrels. We offer new wines from both traditional Georgian grapes and exciting mixtures with European varietals.”
- Tamuna Bidzinashvili
Wino Wrestling Federation #3 MACERATION
WWF Lineup ~ APRIL 2021
This month we are focusing on maceration, or time spent on the skins.
We often discuss what exactly does a natural winemaker do if he isn’t putting chemicals (i.e. acids, enzymes, copper, etc..) into their wine. How do they create such individual expressions of grape and terroir? One such method is Maceration, or time in contact with the skins and stems known as Pomace. Without going into too much detail the Pomace contains Phenolic compounds which consists of a large group of chemical compounds that influence the color, texture and flavor of the wine. The longer the contact time with the more of the more extracted those compounds will be. This extraction time is what a winemaker will employ to make a Red grape into either a rose or a red wine or white grapes into a white or orange wines.
This month we focused on two varietals that go well with spring, Sauvignon Blanc and Gamay. Continuing on our path of juxtaposing local and afar winemakers. We have near and very dear producers, Veteran Edumund St. John and “Ones to Watch” Maitre De Chai. From distances of lands gone unexplored in 2020 we have the enigmatic Chilean producer Vinedos Herrara Alvarado and the ever impressive French producer Herve Villemade.
Peace, Love and soul
- Addam
Edmunds St. John - Bone Jolly 2019 Gamay Rose
Varietal: Gamay
Region: El Dorado, Ca
ABV:
Colour: Red Coral
Nose: Nectarine, Lime peel, Cream
Taste: Watermelon, Sour cherry, Cranberry, Strawberry
Soil: Volcanic Loam
Farming: Organic
Vinification: First picked near the end of August. Grapes were whole cluster pressend and settled overnight, fermented in stainless steel until dry. Tank was then chilled and SO2 added to arrest malolactic fermentation. (The wine went through Malo anyway) Left on the lees for 3 months and racked twice prior to bottling on Janurary 21st.
Our Take: Steve Edmunds has been in the natural wine game for over 30 years. He produces wines with energy and elegance, like a seasoned athlete. Sourcing from some beautiful vineyards all around California. The Bone-Jolly Gamay rose in particular comes from 2 sites, The Witters Vineyard at an elevation of 3400 ft. and the Barsotti Ranch Vineyard at 3000 ft. whose soils are similar to parts of Beaujolais and the Northern Rhone. The light skin contact at pressing makes for a very electric wine perfect for the springtime afternoons.
Producer Notes:
“2020 seems to have been a year that produced rosés somewhat lighter in color than previous vintages, though it didn’t seem that the grapes were deficient in pigment. Our Gamay rosé has a lovely light pink color, with just a whisper of blue at the edges. The aromas are pretty, fresh and ebullient; a gleeful mix of spice and fruit, very typical to this Gamay.
On the palate the entry is lovely, highly energetic layers of spice, pretty berry fruit, a savory highlight of pepper, and pulsing with firm, lively acidity. The finish is long, riveting, and thirst-provoking. For a wine that has been in the bottle so few days, this is really quite a pleasure; a few weeks of settling down in the bottle should have it singing nicely for your supper. (It reminds me, in its just-bottled state, of the 2017 Bone-Jolly Gamay Rosé, for balance and ebullience, its Jouissance! But it seems to have an extra dimension, which I’m inclined to attribute, at least in part, to the completion of the malolactic fermentation; there’s a savoury element there that provides a smattering of underlying gravitas. On the other hand, perhaps in a wine from a year like 2020 (or maybe every year), there is no jouissance sans gravitas.”
- Steve Edmunds
Vinedos Herrera Alvarado - Natural Bianco 2019
Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Marga Marga Valley, Chile
ABV: 11.5% ABV
Colour: Hazy Straw
Nose: Chamomile, Grass, Grapefruit Pith
Taste: Peach, Apple, Lemon
Farming: Organic
Vinification: 100% Own rooted vines and dry farmed. Fermented in concrete with two-days of skin contact. Racked into used barrels where it is aged for 12-15 months. Nothing added, nothing taken away.
Our Take: We were initially drawn to Vinedos Herrera Alvarado for their Pinot Noir that they age in cowhide (Very rad, very wild). We decided to explore his whites and were very excited to find his Sauvignon Blanc’s were delightful and full of character. The Natural Bianco being raw and evocative. It’s a great wine to drink slow and contemplate its evolution and perhaps your very own. The 2 days on the skins adds a beautiful textural experience, baked stone fruits and floral aromas. Always excited about whites from Chile. Pick up his other Sauv “La Zarada” and see this winemakers range.
Musical Pairing: Congregación - Arrebol
Producer Notes:
For Carolina Alvarado and Arturo Herrera, wine is the connection between nature and people. Founded in 2003, Herrera-Alvarado is considered the founder of the now-budding natural wine movement in Chile. Local peasant farmers, or Huasos, have always made wine for home consumption without any additives. After studying agriculture, Carolina and Arturo because very taken with these types of living wines and decided to devote themselves to making wine in this style. Winemaking in the Marga Marga valley, where their cellar is located, dates back to the 14th century. Through word of mouth, Carolina and Arturo learned from the many wine characters in the valley how to make wine in that old style. Perhaps the most unique part of traditional winemaking that they have adapted into their cellar is the use of cow leather for fermentation. Carolina and Arturo built their cellar themselves in the adobe style out of clay from their own vineyards. There is no electricity; everything is done by hand.
Herve Villemade - 2018 Gamay
Varietal: 100% Gamay
Region: Cheverny, Cour-Cheverney, Loire, France
ABV: 12%
Colour: Dark Garnet
Nose: Plum, Cherry, Raspberry, Violets
Taste: Blackberry, Strawberry, Pepper, Soil, tobacco
Farming: Certified Organic
Soil: Clay, Sx, Sand
Vinification: 20 - 30 year old vines. Hand harvested. No additions or subtraction. Aged 4 months in tapered wooden vats.
Our Take: Gamay from the valley of Chaverny made by one of our all time favs, Herve Villemade. Its a medium light wine with enough foundation to bridge day into night. Exuberant nose, juicy and earthy. This one seems to have extracted as much as it could from the light skins of Gamay. Crunchy texture, brambly fruits, pretty lusciously ripe. Serve this with a little chill and enjoy golden hour. Don’t ask me why but I felt like listening to Fatboy Slims- Weapon of choice while I drank this one.
Producer Notes: It was in 1939 that Désiré and Gilberte Villemade arrived at Moulin Neuf , a commune of cellettes, on a small mixed-crop-breeding farm. They have five boys, and it is Henri, the second, who will take over the operation in 1962, with his wife Monique. In almost 40 years, they develop and specialize their productions, from vines to breeding, including vegetables and cereals ... it was in 1976 that Henri began bottling to sell part of its live production. Then it was in 1999 that the brother and sister, Isabelle and Hervé, took over the estate and converted it to organic farming. The harvests become manual and the treatments only natural
Maitre De Chai - Herron Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2019
Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Sonoma Mountain, California
ABV: 12%
Colour: Dusky Goldenrod
Nose: Guava, Passionfruit, Tea, Honey, Peach
Taste: Apple, Pear, Lemongrass, Lime
Farming: Certified Organic
Vinification: Whole cluster foot tread in open top bins. On the skins for 16 days.
Our Take: Alex and Stephanie Pitts can often be seen walking there puppy to the shop since they have become Sacramento locals and we couldn’t be more stoked to be their neighbors. They produce their wines out of Berkeley just minutes away from the amtrak station (worth a visit to their new tasting room). Okay now onto the wine… What a gorgeous skin contact sauvignon blanc from a old vine, dry farmed vineyard out of Sonoma. Tropical and grassy on the nose. Bright acidity, slightly tea like tannin. I always enjoy wines like this at “River Temp” so I would say now that the days are longer and hotter go take this up on a hiking trip and chill it in the fresh snowmelt river of the sierra foothills.
Producer Notes: Planted in 1969, the Herron Vineyard is an acre and a half of Sauvignon Blanc on Sonoma Mountain. This dry-farmed vineyard is one of the oldest Sauvignon Blanc parcels in the United States. These beautiful old vines produce incredible fruit that we tend to, farm and pick ourselves by hand.
In 2014 (our first year working with the vineyard), we made the decision to take half of the fruit and make a skin fermented wine. At the time, Alex was the Assistant Winemaker at The Scholium Project, and their most popular wine, hands down, was 'Prince in his caves', a skin fermented Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma Mountain. As an homage to Abe and to the great skin fermented wines of Northeast Italy, we decided to experiment with our small Sauvignon Blanc vineyard. The wine we made that year was outstanding but in the years between, whether it be the low yields or overall conditions, kept us from making another 'orange', or skin fermented, Sauvignon Blanc until this vintage.
Whole cluster, crushed by foot in open top bins and fermented at ambient Berkeley summer temperatures made for a rose-gold colored wine with the intense tropical fruit aromas we would expect. Immediately poured into the glass, it's Guava and Papaya seeds, but as the wine opens up, a brooding side of dried Herbs de Provence and Calvados take center stage. Five barrels produced. This wine will absolutely last decades.
Wino Wrestling Federation #2
WWF Lineup ~ March 2021
I know y’all are eager to get into your wine
but we just wanted to take a moment to
thank you all for joining our little club.
For the second installment of our wine club we are continuing our Old World vs. New World bouts! Our contenders are Sangiovese and Albarino. We are starting to move more into Spring and felt that these made for a good march fight. Sangiovese origin is in Italy where today nearly 160K acres are planted but locally in the United States we only have 2k planted. Sangiovese makes for medium bodied wines that balance between savory herbs and bright fruits. Representing our local region we have End of Nowhere who makes wine in the sierra foothills. Our Old World contender is Sesti who makes a world class Brunello from the Toscana region of Italy. For our white we have Albarino, an aromatic grape with some thick skin that helps it survive the damp climate of Rias Baixas on the northwestern coast of Spain. Locally Albarino is grown throughout Lodi and Clarksburg where our local producer, Keep, sources their grapes. Both our producers have treated the Albarino in a unique way with long rests and lees aging. Some truly unique interpretations of these varietals that we are really excited to share with you.
Keep Wines - Lost Slough Vineyard 2017
Varietal: 100% Albarino
Region: Sacramento Delta, California
ABV: 12.7%
Colour: Golden Straw
Nose: Marzipan, Flint, Grass, Caramel, Citrus Flowers
Taste: Lemon, Honey, Saline, Kiwi
Soil: Alluvial
Farming: Organic
Vinification: Aged in neutral oak for 18 months and bottle aged for another 18 months before release. .
Our Take: At first this is a little shy but let it get comfortable in the glass and it will bloom into a fucking symphony of toasty almond floral goodness. I think this wine pairs well with sailing. I haven’t been on a boat in years but I’d join a yacht club if it meant I can drink this everyday.
Producer Notes:
.Winemakers Jack Roberts (Matthiasson Wines Assistant Winemaker) and Johanna Jensen (formerly with Scholium Project and Broc Cellars) have come together to create wines influenced by the old world with less ripe fruit, minimal manipulation and great ageability. In the vigneron tradition, they do much of the work themselves from vineyard to bottling. The crest on the bottle is of Beverstone Castle, an 11th century Norman stronghold in Gloucestershire, England where Jack’s father was born and raised. All that remains of Beverstone today is what you see on our label — the moat and the tall ‘keep’, (from the middle english kype, or barrel) which was the defenders' last resort in a siege. It was also where they stored their most precious possessions, especially their wine.
End Of Nowhere
- Ghost in the Machine 2019
Varietal: Sangiovese
Region: Amador County
ABV: 12.5% ABV
Colour: Garnet
Nose: Raspberry, Maraschino, Leather,
Taste: Strawberry, Mushroom, Cherry, Cola
Farming: Organic
Vinification: Whole cluster fermentation, aged 14 month in neutral French oak barrel and puncheon.
Our Take: We really dig Chris here at Ro Sham Beaux. His wines are so alive and change so much over one sitting. This one is no exception. It’s very proper and firm at first but throughout the sitting it starts to let its tie loose gets a little wild.
Producer Notes: Owner, winemaker, and farmer Chris Walsh grew up in Amador County. After graduating college, he moved to New York City to pursue a career in architectural lighting design, but eventually fell into the restaurant/wine scene. In 2014, after a few years of working at wine bars like The Tangled Vine and Corkbuzz Wine Studio, Chris moved back to his hometown and purchased a 20-acre site across the dirt road from the house he grew up in. He named it Little John Lane Vineyard after the name of the dirt road, and planted mostly Rhône varieties; he now has about 5 acres under vine. He farms organically and hopes to dry-farm once the vines are established. The soil is extremely volcanic and the vineyard is at the highest elevation in Amador County at 3300 feet.
Sesti - Toscana Monteleccio 2018
Varietal: 100% Sangiovese
Region: Tuscany, Italy
ABV: 14%
Colour: Ruby
Nose: Cherry, Dried Cranberry, Leather,
Taste: Raspberry, Ume, Cherry, Muchroom, Vanilla
Farming: Practicing Biodynamic
Soil: Oceanic Sediment
Vinification: One year of elevage (Barrel Aging) in 30 hectoliter oak botti
Our Take: This is a sophisticated mama mia. Built like a brickhouse in the hills of Tuscany. Both dried and ripe fruits throughout with a little mushroomy leather hanging on at the end. I’d say drink this with a hearty dinner.
Producer Notes: Giuseppe Sesti didn’t initially choose a career in wine. Instead, he was inspired to study music, art, and astronomy, the latter becoming his profession. He met his future wife in Wales while writing his first book, and in 1975 moved to Tuscany, purchasing the abandoned castle of Argiano, slowly restoring the breathtaking estate later planting his vineyards around the castle. In 1999 the Sesti’s daughter, Elisa, joined the estate full time, becoming a partner in all aspects of production. The Sesti lineup includes a white Sauvignon and a Rosato, but their Brunello, Brunello Riserva, and Rosso di Montalcino provide traditional expressions of the appellation, robust and powerful yet refreshing, with great aging potential.
Mar de Envero - 2017
Varietal: 100% Albarino
Region: Rias Baixas, Spain
ABV: 13%
Colour: Goldenrod
Nose: Flint,
Taste: Saline,
Soil: Sand & Granite
Farming: Organic
Vinification: 7 Hours of Skin Contact and 9 months on lees. All Stainless Steel
Our Take: More textured than that of your traditionally made Albarino from Rias Baixas . This is Isley Brothers to the Beach Boys of the Keep Albarino. Silk vs Linen if you catch my drift.
Producer Notes: Envero means veraison. In his off time, Miguel (he goes by Manyo) surfs the cold waters off the Galician coast. So he has waves on his mind. One day while looking out over the rolling green vineyards during the time of Veraison, he was reminded of the ocean and sets of waves coming in. Thus, Mar de Envero. Sea of Veraision.
They currently farm 6.5 HA of vineyards and produce 2 wines.
Wino Wrestling Federation #1
I know y’all are eager to get into your wine
but we just wanted to take a moment to
thank you all for joining our little club.
We have spent the last year building Ro Sham Beaux for our community and after much delay and many hurdles we couldn’t be more stoked to open the doors and share our selections with you. Natural wine is a well worn path in many cities but not so much our own, yet we are surrounded by an immense amount of viticulture and winemaking talent that goes unrecognized. With this inaugural club selection we wanted to highlight some up n’ comers in our region who are making some truly gorgeous juice, both whom trained under local legends Gideon & Soron of Clos Soron. Depending on your membership, you’ll find an ultra small-production Rhône blend by Frenchtown Farms (who are killer farmers as well as winemakers) that you can compare to a legendary French producer whose family has been working in the Rhône Valley for the better part of a century. Our white wine selection is tied together as well, showcasing a local tribute to French Chenin blanc, along with a quintessential Chenin blanc produced by one of the Loire Valley’s great biodynamic winemakers. We truly love each of these expressions and hope you will too!
WWF Lineup ~ February 2021
Frenchtown Farms
Cotillion 2018
Varietal: 70% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache, 10% Syrah
Region: El Dorado County
Production: 140 Cases
ABV: 13.6%
Colour: Garnet
Nose: Cranberry, Forest Floor, Petrichor, New Leather
Taste: Strawberry, Dark Cherry, Vegetal, Lactic
Soil: Granite
Farming: Organic, David Girard Vineyards
Vinification: Foot-stomped, whole-cluster fermentation in open top vessels with gentle punchdowns. Pressed after eight days of maceration and aged in neutral French oak barrels for eight months. 18ppm total so2 addition, unfined and unfiltered.
Our Take: This high-acid Rhone-varietal blend shows grippy tannins and a super dry profile that morphs immensely as it opens up. Juicy, sultry, complex, it’s the sipping adventure that reveals new twists with every taste.
Producer Notes:
Winemakers Aaron and Cara Mockrish initially settled in the sierra foothills to start a farm but found themselves with a bottle of wine that changed their lives instead. After tracing its origins to nearby winemaker guru Gideon Beinstock of Clos Saron, the two began to work closely with him, learning everything they could about vineyards, cellars and wines. Aaron and Cara eventually found their way to the abandoned vineyards of the Renaissance Winery (we would be remiss to not link you to this crazy article regarding the property’s literal cult history) where Clos Saron had begun making wine long ago. They now farm the oldest of the vines for their own label, Frenchtown Farms, along with various other unique vineyards in the sierra foothill area. Their farming is influenced in part by Joel Salatin, Rudolf Steiner, and Masanobu Fukuoka, but mostly by their own observations and hard lessons throughout each season.
Martin Texier
- Grenache Vigne Du Mas 2019
Varietal: Grenache
Region: St.-Julien-en-St.-Alban, Northern Rhône, France
ABV: 12.5% ABV
Colour: Dark Ruby
Nose: Cherry, Rhubarb, Soil
Taste: Strawberry, Blackberry, Red Currant, Anise
Soil: Granite
Farming: Organic, dry farmed
Vinification: Hand harvested, no destemming, pressed by foot after a week-long maceration. Native yeast fermentation with no so2 added.
Our Take: This is a wine we want everyday. To us this wine is like a good conversation with an old friend, one that you leave feeling grounded and secure. It’s balanced and familiar, but offers a new perspective with each encounter.
Producer Notes:
Sometimes you run from your inevitable future, because a bit of rebellion is the only way to finally face that future with resolve instead of resentment. Too dark? Well that’s the story of Martin Texier, winemaker and son of legendary Rhône winemaker Eric Texier.
After heading to school for economics, Martin became a DJ, worked at a fabled record store called A1 Records, and, oh yeah, held down some major wine internships at various NYC wine shops. In 2014, Texier realized his time had come to return to the fields, where he settled on 5 hectares planted in white and red Rhône varietals. In the cellar as well as the vineyard, Martin practices traditional techniques and is already receiving accolades for his fantastic results.
Ellsworth Wines
Chenin Blanc 2019
Varietal: Chenin Blanc
Region: Placerville, California
ABV: 11.7%
Production: 75 Cases
Colour: Golden Straw
Nose: Pear, Jasmine, Chamomile
Taste: Apple, Honeydew, Persimmon
Farming: Organic
Vinification: young vine chenin, hand picked, foot tread, and pressed into 3-year-old French oak barrels. Full primary and malolactic fermentation without the use of additives. 20ppm so2 added one month before bottling. Bottled 7/5/2020.
Our Take: An elegant new-world chenin inspired by those wines Jeff and Bryne love from the Loire Valley in France. We listened to some John Cale and Brian Eno while we twirled this golden hued Chenin in our glasses and felt truly connected to something greater. Eno’s “mmm” at the start of that track fits all to well.
Producer Notes:
Winemakers Jeffrey and Bryne of Ellsworth Wines are the modern story-book power couple. Both veterans of the service industry hailing from the east coast, the two packed up to move west and study under inimitable winemaker guru Gideon Beinstock of Clos Saron in the remote sierra foothills. After a stint abroad studying the finer techniques of traditional French producers, Jeff and Bryne returned to the sierra foothills where they give new life to fallow or under-utilized vineyards, painstakingly crafting their Northern California tributes to the finest of French wines.
La Sot de l’Ange
Sec Symbole 2018
Varietal: Chenin blanc
Region: Azay-le-Rideau, Loire Valley, France
ABV:
Colour: Light Straw
Nose: Meyer Lemon, White Flowers, Nutty, Herbaceous
Taste: Citrus, Stones, Saline
Soil: Clay, Silica
Farming: Biodynamic
Vinification: Young vine chenin, whole cluster fermentation with native yeast, slow pressing over 5+ hours, early bottling and minimal addition of so2.
Our Take: A smooth-drinking old-world chenin that balances medium body and good acidity, resulting in a fresh, mineral-driven wine with bright citrus notes and a slightly saline finish. It’s the perfect wine for a trip to the beach or to pretend you’re at one already.
Producer Notes: Quentin Borse, the “Idiot Angel” as Le Sot de L’Ange roughly translates to, is a winemaker and farmer who’s been residing in Azay-le-Rideau in the Loire Valley's Touraine region since 2013. All of his estate vineyards are certified biodynamic.
This chenin is from his younger estate vines and is bottled young, preserving a bright acidity and freshness, the very feeling of early spring- and yeah, we know it’s winter right now, but we can still drink like the days are getting warmer, can’t we?
TIS THE SEASON!
It’s been a loooooooong year. We’ve all been challenged in ways that we would never have imagined possible. Yet, I hope that you will all be able to look forward to the year to come and enjoy the holidays with a sense of accomplishment, you’re a badass and now you deserve a drink. Whether this was a gift from a very tasteful friend or you felt that it was just time to treat yourself I want to raise a glass to you and yours. Enjoy this selection of wines and ciders we felt would be a perfect pairing for your holiday.
- Addam
Cidrerie du Vulcain - 2018 Transparente
Varietal: 20+ foraged apple varieties
Region: Fribourg, Switzerland
ABV: 7.1%
Colour: Golden Yellow
Nose: Fresh Apple, Yeast, Chamomile,
Taste: Tight Fizz, Dry, Apple, Rosemary
Soil: Limestone, schist, topsoil is largely clay-based.
Farming: Wild foraged from untreated high-branched trees
Vinification: indigenous yeasts in stainless tanks; lightly filtered and decanted into bottles to complete fermentation
Our Take: This cider is childhood nostalgia through the lens of a well lived life. Sure it got a little beat up along the way but damn did it make for a good amount of character and backbone. It starts off semi-sweet and only looks over the fence at sour. This sticks with you for a long and dry moment. This is a good cider to try for those funk-fearing folks who are willing to dip their toes in.
Producer Notes:
Jacques Perritaz was once a biologist for the Swiss government working on the preservation of natural habitats and specializing in rare native plants. Eventually the rigor of computer work seemed less of a life worthy of his passion and he began to transition over to wine and cider making. At first he began interning for some of the local Swiss wineries gaining the knowledge and techniques to produce his outstanding ciders. Around the year 2000 he noticed some neglected and some abandoned apple and pear trees some nearly 200 years old. They were remnants of a bygone polyculture where farmers could sell apples from their pastures to local cideries. Eventually striking some deals with the land owners to start harvesting his career in cider began. Now Jacques hand forages fruit from 150-200 trees every year an approach that helps preserve the traditionally landscape and promotes biodiversity. His cider mill is in the basement of on old 19th century tile factory where he only uses natural yeasts and finishes fermentation in bottle.
Domaine Ozil - 2019 Gourmandise
Varietal: Grenache, Syrah and Viognier
Region: Ardeche, Northern Rhone, France
ABV: 12.5%
Colour: Deep Garnet
Nose: Sour Cherry, Maraschino, Cinnamon, White Pepper
Taste: Cassis, Plum, Cranberry, Mushroom
Farming: Certified Organic
Our Take:
gour·man·dize /ˈɡo͝ormənˌdīz/ verb 1. eat good food, especially to excess.
This is a pretty fitting name and when you eat good food to excess you should pair it with good wine. This Rhone blend from Domaine Ozil is like supping on the synthesis of a classic still life ala Caravaggio or Pieter Claesz. You can just imagine baskets of cherries, mushroom & plums overflowing, a vase of flowers, jars of spices and some skull because everyone is metal and has a skull on their dining room table.
Producer Notes:
Domaine Ozil is a 5th generation polyculture farm in the southern Ardèche, which is now in the hands of two young & dynamic brothers Jean Daniel & Thomas Ozil. In 2013 Thomas joined the domaine, in order to get out of the coop (to which they sold most of their fruit) they decided to transform their grapes (make & bottle wine). With the guidance of Gilles Azzoni, they were able to have the confidence to make natural wine with no added sulfites. They also farm olives, peaches, lavender & vegetables on top of their 16 hectares of vines planted mainly to grenache, syrah, viognier, marsanne & cinsault. All the farming is certified organic and they also practice biodynamic farming.
Kumpf et Meyer - 2018 Rastons Nature
Varietal: Pet Nat of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Colour: Yellow Straw at dusk
Nose: Peach, Nectarine, Lactic, Confectioners Sugar
Taste: Pear, Unripe Nectarine, Brioche, Cantaloupe, Dry
Farming: Certified Organic/ Practicing Biodynamic
Soil: Clay and limestone
Vinification: Direct pressed and fermented with indigenous yeasts, bottled at the end of October with 12 gr / L of residual sugars. Without added sulphites, unfiltered and not disgorged.
Our Take: The initial pour is frothy with tight bubbles. It starts of a little shy and reserved with some unripe stone fruits coming through but tasting through its evolutions is pretty fantastic. Its a cool little shapeshifter that eventually gives way to buttery brioche and melon. Put a good chill on it as Pet Nats have a tendency to foam up if not at proper serving temp.
Producer Notes: The Kumpf et Meyer estate began in 1997 by couple Sophie Kumpf and Phillippe Meyer. Phillippe left the estate after some time and in 2010 a young winegrower by the name of Julien Albertus joined the ranks and his influence pushed the wine to be produced natural and the farming to be organic. Soon the restrictions of organic farming was considered not restrictive enough and they pushed further into biodynamics. Today the vineyard covers 15 hectars with over 70 plots.